This tomato rice pairs well with seafood, poultry or vegetable-centric mains, or it can be eaten as a light meal with a dollop of yogurt or topped with a fried egg. The Hubs even chopped up some leftover pork tenderloin and stirred it in the remaining rice, creating a pork-fried rice of a sorts.
To make this version of South Indian tomato rice, two tomato forms are used: paste, which offers concentrated flavor and deep color, plus chopped cherry or grape tomatoes for freshness. The cooking starts with a tarka—that is, blooming the spices and aromatics in hot oil to draw out their essence—before basmati rice goes into the saucepan.
We like the subtle fruity, smoky notes that árbol chilies release into the rice, but if you have only red pepper flakes on hand, they will work, but will add a more direct, less nuanced spiciness. We didn’t find it very spicy at all. Be sure to rinse and drain the rice before use. Rinsing removes excess starch for especially light, fluffy grains.
2 tsp. cumin seeds OR yellow or brown mustard seeds OR a combination
2 – 3 árbol chilies, broken in half, seeds discarded OR ¼ to ½ tsp. red pepper flakes
2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
1½ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1½ cups basmati rice, rinsed and drained
1 pint cherry OR grape tomatoes, quartered
Directions
In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or a small bowl, whisk together 2 cups water, the tomato paste and ¾ teaspoon salt. In a large saucepan over medium, combine the oil, cumin seeds, chilies, garlic and ginger. Cook, stirring, until the seeds begin to pop and the mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute.
Stir in the rice, coating the grains with oil. Stir in the tomato water and bring to a boil over medium-high. Cover, reduce to low and cook until the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat. Quickly scatter the tomatoes over the rice and re-cover. Let stand for 10 minutes. Using a fork, fluff the rice, incorporating the tomatoes into it. Remove and discard the chilies, if used. Taste and season with salt.
For many of us, August is the time that a lot of our vegetable/herb gardens are abundant with their bounty. For instance, tomatoes, zucchini and basil are three popular homegrown favorites and this tart recipe takes full advantage of their product. No soggy summer tart here!
Frozen puff pastry makes this elegant and impressive savory tart easy to pull together. Za’atar, a Middle Eastern herb, seed and spice blend, is used to add a perfect flavor accent to the sweet, summery tomatoes and zucchini. To keep these high-moisture vegetables from releasing water during cooking—and leaving the pastry soggy—salt the slices for 20 minutes or so to draw out excess juices while the oven heats.
The bonus is vegetables with more concentrated flavor that are nicely seasoned. As for the puff pastry, Dufour is preferred because it is made with butter and is of a size that needs only minimal rolling after the sheet is unfolded. Pepperidge Farm puff pastry works, too, though it lacks buttery richness. You will need only one sheet from the 17.3-ounce box (which contains two sheets), and it will need to be rolled out into a rectangle roughly 10 by 14 inches. Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.
Now the original recipe from Milk Street indicates it feeds 6 to 8. No way José! At best you’ll get four 5″ x 7″ slices, and paired with a side salad, makes a complete meal. Yes, if you are serving it as an appetizer, you could cut the tart up into 16 pieces…
Don’t forget to leave a 1-inch border when poking holes in the rolled-out pastry. The holes help prevent too much lift in the area covered by the veggies while the border bakes up into a light, crisp crust around them.
We made one noticeable change in the process. Since we were using large tomatoes, and not plum tomatoes, we seeded them first before salting. In a large bowl, we mixed the summer squash and onion with oil and za’atar before folding in the tomatoes. This helped to prevent the tomato slices from being torn apart.
4 ripe medium plum tomatoes, cored and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
1 medium (8 oz.) yellow summer squash OR zucchini, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
1 Tbsp. za’atar
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
14 oz. package Dufour frozen puff pastry, thawed but still cool, OR 1 sheet Pepperidge Farm puff pastry, thawed but still cool
All-purpose flour, for dusting
2 oz. feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
Directions
Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Lay the tomato and squash slices in a single layer on the paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Flip the slices and sprinkle the second sides with another ¼ teaspoon salt. Let stand for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the lowest position.
Pat the tomatoes and squash dry. In a medium bowl, toss the slices with the oil, za’atar, onion and ¼ teaspoon pepper. (You may want to fold in the tomato slices after mixing the other bowl ingredients.) Remove and discard the paper towels from the baking sheet.
Unfold the puff pastry onto a sheet of kitchen parchment that will fit in the baking sheet. Using a rolling pin, roll the pastry into a 10-by-14-inch rectangle, lightly dusting with flour if needed, then transfer the parchment with the pastry to the baking sheet.
With a fork, poke holes all over the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Arrange the vegetables on the pastry, shingling the tomatoes and squash and avoiding the edges, then sprinkle with half of the feta. Bake until the pastry is golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
Using the parchment, slide the tart onto a wire rack. Top with the remaining feta and a drizzle of oil. Cool for about 30 minutes, then cut into portions.
Optional garnish: Chopped fresh mint or basil OR flaky sea salt OR both
A go-to pantry flavor solution does double duty when both meatballs and sauce are added into the mix. For a taste of North Africa use the spice paste harissa described here, or depending on your mood and what you have on hand, give the dish a Mexican flair with smoky-spicy chipotle chilies in adobo instead.
Cherry tomatoes are roasted until they burst—their juices mingling with the seasonings to form a luscious sauce. Then the meatballs are nestled into the tomatoes and everything is roasted in the same pan. Serve with crusty bread for dipping in the sauce.
TIP: Refrigerate the meatballs before cooking; this firms them up so they’ll hold their shape as they roast.
Let’s talk about portion size. The original recipe states it feeds four—and that’s without any rice or pasta. Realistically, we felt 4 meatballs over orzo made for a decent serving, therefore comfortably feeding three people.
6 medium garlic cloves, 4 cloves smashed and peeled, 2 cloves finely grated, reserved separately
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. harissa paste, divided
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
⅓ cup panko breadcrumbs
1 lb. ground lamb, OR 90 percent lean ground beef
Chopped fresh cilantro OR flat-leaf parsley, to serve
Crumbled feta cheese, as topping
Directions
Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle position. In a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, toss together the tomatoes, smashed garlic, oil, 1 tablespoon harissa, ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper and ¼ cup water. Bake, uncovered, until the tomatoes have broken down, 30 to 35 minutes; stir once about halfway through.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the panko and ½ cup water. Let stand until the panko softens, about 5 minutes, then use your hands to mash to a smooth paste. Add the beef, grated garlic, remaining 1 tablespoon harissa and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper; mix thoroughly with your hands. Divide into 12 portions, rolling them into smooth balls. Place on a large plate and refrigerate until ready to use.
Remove the baking dish from the oven and nestle the meatballs in the tomato sauce. Bake, uncovered, until the meatballs are browned and the centers reach 160°F, about 15 minutes. Taste and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cilantro and feta cheese crumbles.
Here’s a summer recipe that could possibly live in your memory for some time to come. As most of us know, shrimp get along well with garlic, butter and lemon, and so do tomatoes and corn. Combine them, and you get a summery shrimp scampi that comes together in one skillet.
A searing hot pan helps the tomatoes blister and the corn caramelize before they are coated in a garlic-lemon butter sauce. This is a meal in and of itself, but if you want to serve it with pasta or bread, they’d be welcome additions. In fact, if you do plan to serve 4 diners, you will definitely need some accompaniments, because it barely made 3 sufficient servings when we made it.
If not overly concerned with carbs, serve over orzo and/or with some crusty bread to mop up that incredible sauce is the way to go.
It was beyond delicious, even with frozen corn. So can you imagine if using fresh corn cut right off the cob? It wasn’t quite ready for picking at the time we made this, but when we replicate the recipe soon, you betcha we’ll use fresh corn!
The original recipe indicated it would take a total time of only 15 minutes. Impossible. Just cutting the kernels off the ears of corn takes 8 minutes or so. Realistically, it took the 2 of us just over a half hour from start to finish. Still, that’s not bad for such a scrumptious meal!
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon), plus wedges for serving (optional)
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 5 pieces
3 Tbsp. chopped parsley or chives, or torn basil leaves
Directions
Pat the shrimp very dry and season with salt and pepper. In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high. Add the shrimp and cook until pink and lightly golden in spots, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the shrimp to a plate.
Add the tomatoes to the skillet, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring just once or twice, until they start to blister in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring just once or twice, until the tomatoes burst and the corn is golden in spots, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the garlic and red-pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until you smell garlic, about 1 minute.
Reduce heat to medium, and add the wine and lemon juice, scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until nearly evaporated, then add the butter and stir until melted. Add the shrimp and its juices and stir until warmed through. (If the sauce breaks and looks greasy, add 1 or 2 teaspoons of water and stir until emulsified.)
Remove from heat, add the herbs, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with extra lemon for squeezing over, if you like.
With a flavor profile inspired by pasta e fagioli, this weeknight pasta recipe coaxes rich flavor out of simple ingredients while enlisting the oven to create a luscious sauce from roasted tomatoes and white beans.
Essentially, the dish requires just three steps: Boil pasta, roast your sauce ingredients, then stir together until the pasta is glossy. When roasted in the oven, the beans become crispy, like croutons, and break down in a way that helps thicken the sauce.
Though a flurry of freshly grated cheese would be welcome on top, this otherwise-vegan dish doesn’t need it; although we used it. The roasted tomato sauce is rich and luscious, fortified by starchy pasta water, roasted beans and a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil.
Our changes included omitting the sugar, using only 8 ounces of pasta, and cutting the olive oil in half, but keeping the other ingredients at the original amounts. To summarize, the meal exuded complex textures that came from roasting the shallot, garlic and tomatoes; with a little crunch, a little creamy, a hint of smokiness, and a little glossy finish.
½ tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary (or ¼ teaspoon dried)
½ tsp. red-pepper flakes
½ tsp. granulated sugar
16 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved
1 15-oz. can small white beans (preferably navy or cannellini beans), rinsed (or 1⅓ cups cooked white beans)
1 lb. orecchiette (or other shaped pasta that will cup or grasp the sauce)
Freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino (optional), for serving
Directions
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high.
In a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup olive oil with the shallot, tomato paste, garlic, rosemary, red-pepper flakes and sugar. On a large baking sheet, toss the tomatoes with the dressing; season generously with salt and pepper, then spread in an even layer.
On a second baking sheet, toss the beans with 2 tablespoons olive oil; season generously with salt and pepper.
Roast the tomatoes and beans, stirring halfway through, until tomatoes slump and beans crisp, about 25 minutes.
While the tomatoes and beans roast, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water then drain pasta.
Transfer the beans and tomatoes to the pot. Add ¼ cup pasta cooking water to the sheet pan from the tomatoes and use a flexible spatula to scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the sheet pan; transfer to the pot, then repeat with another ¼ cup pasta cooking water. (One thing they’ll teach you in French culinary school: Never, ever discard the sucs, those browned bits at the bottom of the pan that carry deep flavor.)
Add the pasta and the remaining ½ cup olive oil to the pot; stir vigorously until saucy. Season generously with salt and pepper, then add extra pasta water as needed to moisten until glossy. Divide among wide, shallow bowls and top with grated cheese, if desired.
We had our doubts as to whether or not tender scallops and bold Spanish chorizo would make good bedfellows. This unusual combination proves that spiced cured pork and delicate shellfish are a match made in one-skillet weeknight-dinner heaven.
The recipe from Bon Appétit starts with searing scallops on one side over high heat to develop a golden brown crust, then a sauce is built from salty chorizo, lots of garlic, and bright Sun Gold tomatoes (you can use any variety of cherry tomatoes, but that vibrant yellow hue can’t be beat). The scallops are nestled back into the sauce for the last few minutes to cook through. Serve with toast for a bright, satisfying meal that comes together in about 30 minutes.
It’s worth it to seek out Spanish chorizo—a firm, cured pork product like salami—for this dish, if you can. Unlike Mexican chorizo, which is raw spiced ground pork sold loose or in sausage casings, the Spanish variety is well-salted and already cooked, so it only requires a minute or two in the pan to crisp up and render out some flavorful fat to sizzle with your sauce’s aromatic base.
Don’t be fooled by the seemingly spare quantity in the skillet before serving. The entrée is very rich and filling. I only managed to eat 3 of the scallops. Of course, if you want to beef up the meal, serving over a Baked Rice dish (Arroz Al Horno) provides more heft.
12 large dry sea scallops, side muscles removed, patted dry
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
½ tsp. smoked paprika, plus more for serving
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. smoked Spanish chorizo, cut into small pieces
1½ lb. Sun Gold and/or cherry tomatoes
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
1 shallot, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Chopped parsley (for serving)
1 baguette, sliced, toasted
Directions
Season 12 large dry sea scallops, side muscles removed, patted dry, with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper and sprinkle with ½ tsp. smoked paprika. Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over high. Cook scallops until golden brown underneath, about 2 minutes (no need to brown on the other side). Transfer to a plate and arrange, browned side up.
Reduce heat to medium-high and cook 6 oz. smoked Spanish chorizo, cut into small pieces, in pan, stirring occasionally, until slightly crisped, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to a bowl.
Cook 1½ lb. Sun Gold and/or cherry tomatoes in same pan, undisturbed, until lightly blistered underneath, about 1 minute. Add 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar and cook, stirring often, until tomatoes have burst and are falling apart, 2–3 minutes. Add 1 shallot, finely chopped, and 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and season with salt and pepper; cook, stirring often, until slightly thickened and garlic has started to soften, about 5 minutes.
Add ½ cup water and cook, stirring occasionally, until saucy, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; add chorizo and 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter and stir to melt butter. Add scallops, nestling into sauce browned side up, and cook until scallops are just cooked through, about 3 minutes.
Divide scallops and sauce among shallow bowls; top each with chopped parsley and a pinch of paprika. Serve with 1 baguette, sliced, toasted.
By mid- to late-summer, many home gardeners (or farm stands) will have ample tomatoes and zucchini, so this tasty recipe will assist in using up some of that seasonal bounty. It’s a wonderful meatless dish that can be served as a side or as an entrée with a side salad.
The original recipe by Martha Shulman looked very appetizing, however, we felt a number of alterations could improve the outcome. Roasting, rather than frying the zucchini, allows you to cut down on olive oil and time. With small zucchini under 8 inches long, there is no need to cut them in half crosswise; simply slice them into 1/4″ strips using a mandoline if you have one.
Two sheet pans are oiled with Pam Olive Oil spray instead of lining them with parchment (which many reviewers claimed left the zucchini too watery). After roasting the zucchini, layer the cooled planks between paper towels, and refrigerate until ready to assemble. This helps eliminate any extra moisture. Do this step the day before or that morning, which will save time when you are ready to prep.
Of course, while using fresh tomatoes is preferred, another time saver is to use canned whole tomatoes instead. Crush them with your hands, then follow the directions for making the sauce. For a heftier meal, amp up the dish with 8 ounces of shredded mozzarella, sprinkling between each set of layers with some on top. A small amount of sugar (1⁄8 tsp.) was in the recipe, but we did not include any.
It will serve 4-6 as an entrée, or 8-10 as a side. Fabulous as leftovers too… eaten at room temperature, or reheated.
2 to 2½ lbs. fresh ripe tomatoes; OR 2, 28-ounce cans of whole tomatoes, hand crushed
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
6 garlic cloves (more or less to taste), roughly chopped
Salt and pepper
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil, divided
For the Zucchini Parmesan
2 to 2¼ lbs. zucchini
Salt and pepper
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ to 1 tsp. red pepper flakes, to taste
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan
8 oz. shredded mozzarella
Directions
If you have a food mill, quarter tomatoes. If not, peel, seed and chop them. OR, use canned whole tomatoes and drain the juices saving for another purpose. Crush tomatoes with hands.
To make tomato sauce, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat and add onion. Cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes.
Add garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute, and add crushed tomatoes, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of chopped basil. Increase heat to medium-high. When tomatoes are bubbling briskly, stir and reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until tomatoes have cooked down and are beginning to stick to pan, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Spray 2 sheet pans with olive oil. Trim ends off zucchini and cut in half crosswise if larger than 8 inches long, then cut into lengthwise slices, about ¼ to ⅓ inch thick (a mandoline comes in handy for this step).
Season on both sides with salt and pepper and toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Arrange zucchini slices on baking sheets in one layer and sprinkle with red pepper flakes. Roast for 12 minutes, until lightly browned and easily pierced with a knife. Remove from oven and reduce heat to 375 degrees.
If using a food mill, put sauce through medium blade. If not, pulse sauce in a food processor fitted with steel blade until just coarsely puréed. (Or use an immersion blender.) Stir in remaining chopped basil.
To assemble the dish, oil a 2-quart gratin pan with olive oil. Spread ¼ cup tomato sauce over bottom of dish. Arrange a third of the zucchini in an even layer over tomato sauce. Spoon a third of remaining sauce over zucchini, sprinkle with ¼ cup Parmesan, and add 1⁄3 of mozzarella. Repeat with 2 more layers, ending with ¼ cup Parmesan and remaining mozzarella. Drizzle on remaining tablespoon olive oil.
Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until bubbling and browned on the top and edges. Remove from heat and allow to sit for 10 minutes before serving.
Local tomatoes are king this time of year so we try to use them in a variety of ways almost everyday during the season. Here’s a simple summer tomato salad recipe that makes the most of—and uses up—some of the tomato bounty from your garden or local farm market.
America’s Test Kitchen (ATK) discovered that salting the tomatoes before mixing them into the salad brings out their juices, which make a great base for the dressing. Another discovery was there’s no need to peel homegrown tomatoes for a tomato salad recipe, because their skins are usually thin and unobtrusive.
The amounts of the ingredients are subjective to your own preferences. If you prefer tuna packed in oil, go ahead and use it; in fact, save the drained oil from the tuna and use it instead of, or with, the remaining olive oil. No blanching or cooking needed here!
The olives, red onions and capers are boldly flavored Mediterranean standbys, typically a healthy diet to follow. It’s a great option to bring on a picnic or to enjoy lunch at your community pool.
While we are on the subject of great tomato recipes, I have to give a shout out to the Heirloom Tomato Tart(shown above) that I blogged about 4 years ago. If you are also interested in that recipe just click on the link. The tomato salad recipe is below.
12 large black olives, such as Kalamata or other brine-cured variety, pitted and chopped
¼ cup red onion, chopped fine
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley leaves
Ground black pepper
1 6-oz. can solid white tuna in water, or oil-packed if preferred
Directions
Core and halve tomatoes, then cut each half into 1/2″ thick wedges. Toss wedges with salt in large bowl; let rest until small pool of liquid accumulates, 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk oil, lemon juice, capers, olives, onion, parsley, and pepper to taste in small bowl. Pour mixture over tomatoes and accumulated liquid; toss to coat. Set aside to blend flavors, about 5 minutes.
Crumble tuna over tomatoes; toss to combine. Adjust seasonings and serve immediately.
Large, juicy, ripe heirloom or beefsteak tomatoes and fresh picked corn on the cob are two heavy hitters that shine from mid- to late-summer in our neck of the woods. For those few fleeting months we try to take advantage of the produce preparing them in a myriad of different ways. Often, the simple approach is just as tasty as a more complicated recipe such as a corn sauté or an heirloom tomato tart.
You may have enjoyed Caprese Salad before, but have you ever topped it with some grated lemon zest? This twist on the preparations adds a wonderful bright note that compliments the other flavors. Sun-ripened farmers market tomatoes are layered with creamy mozzarella and topped with aromatic fresh basil, sweet and tangy balsamic vinegar, and that aforementioned floral lemon zest.
To complete the meal, we boiled fresh ears of corn, and grilled a cedar-planked salmon with a North African spice rub—both of which took about the same amount of time to cook. Deliscioso!
Have a potluck or picnic coming up? Then this simple salad is a perfect choice because it travels well and can be made ahead. It makes a bright, tangy companion to grilled meat or fish. Marinating the red onions and garlic in the vinaigrette for 15 minutes not only diffuses their flavor but also softens their bite.
The salad is also supremely versatile, and can be dressed up with any soft herb like basil, tarragon or mint, and chile, in almost any form. We doubled the recipe for a recent picnic and practically every morsel disappeared.
While we had never tried the SweetPops brand of grape tomatoes, they were so sweet and delicious. Make sure you use Parmesan shavings as opposed to grated parm.
¾ cup very thinly sliced red onion (about 1/2 a small onion)
1 ½ tsp. minced garlic (about 1 large clove)
2 pints cherry/grape tomatoes, halved
1 15-oz. can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
⅓ cup chopped fresh parsley
½ cup shaved Parmesan (about 2 ounces)
Directions
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. Stir in the red onion and garlic and set the dressing aside to marinate for 15 to 30 minutes at room temperature.
Place the tomatoes, white beans and parsley in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the salad, toss well, then gently fold in the Parmesan.
On one of our numerous trips to Spain, we took a cooking class in Seville at Taller Andaluz de Cocina. One of the recipes was making a Salmorejo—sometimes known as ardoria or ardorío—a traditional soup originating from the Andalusia region in southern Spain. It is composed simply of tomato, bread, extra-virgin olive oil and garlic.
The soup is served cold and is garnished with chopped Spanish serrano ham and diced hard-boiled eggs. Unfortunately, the grocery store was not carrying either jamón serrano or Ibérico, but push-come-to-shove, prosciutto is an acceptable substitute. Although reminiscent of gazpacho, Salmorejo is more pink-orange, and is also much thicker and creamier in texture, because it includes more olive oil and bread.
A Spanish-themed dinner was planned for a belated birthday of some good friends. For starters, our drinks, tinto de verano, were paired with a tomato-pesto Manchego cheese appetizer. While The Hubs made a seafood paella on his grill, and Spanish music played softly in the background, our guests, Maria Odili and Steve, took the opportunity to do a bit of dancing.
The Salmorejo was our initial course, and boy was it a hit, we think even better than the version we made in Seville, with everyone enjoying seconds! After the paella, lots of laughter and more wine, those that still had room feasted on Maria’s homemade peach cobbler. Not a shabby way to spend a midweek evening at all…
4 oz. stale bread, torn in pieces and moistened with water if too dry
4 oz. extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
1 clove garlic, peeled and green shoot removed
1 tsp. table salt, or more to taste
2 tsp. sherry vinegar
2 hard boiled eggs, peeled and chopped, for garnish
2 oz. jamón serrano or Ibérico, diced, for garnish
Directions
Core the tomatoes and cut into quarters while holding them over blender jar. Add the bread, garlic, salt and vinegar. Blend all ingredients until smooth, scraping sides of blender jar as needed.
With the blender on, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream to create a creamy, salmon-orange emulsion. Taste and even out the flavor by adding more salt and vinegar if needed. Remember that the garlic and vinegar flavors will taste stronger after resting in the refrigerator.
Before serving, garnish the soup with chopped boiled egg, diced ham, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
Here’s an elegant low-carb salad that’s bulky enough to feed four as a main entrée. It was the perfect antidote for lunch on a recent Sunday afternoon when a couple of friends dropped by and our original plans for outside dining fell through due to inclement weather.
Much of the prep can be prepared ahead of time, such as the hard boiled eggs, bacon, and shredded chicken. A rotisserie chicken is so easy, and generally cheaper than buying a whole uncooked chicken—basically a no-brainer. But if you happen to have some breast meat already cooked, go ahead and shred that.
We always keep a homemade sherry-based mustard vinaigrette on hand, thus we used it with the added touch of flavor provided by the bacon fat. Sherry vinegar is now appearing not just in specialty stores but also in many ordinary supermarkets. With its nutty, oaky, savory flavors it is good in applications across the board. While we always buy “Columela” sourced from Spain, Napa Valley Naturals costs just $0.43 per ounce and is sold widely in supermarkets, so it’s a good one to try.
1 rotisserie chicken, breast meat removed and shredded (save the remaining chicken for another use)
2 ripe avocados, halved and cut into 1⁄4″ slices
8 oz. grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
4 hard boiled eggs, cut into 8 wedges each
1 cup blue cheese crumbles
8 strips of bacon, crisped and cut into 1⁄2″ pieces (2 Tbsp. fat reserved for dressing)
1⁄2 cup vinaigrette with 2 Tbsp. bacon fat
Directions
Prepare hard boiled eggs ahead of time. When ready to assemble salad, cut them into wedges.
Make/buy a sherry vinaigrette (don’t use a balsamic version), and measure 1/2 cup; add 2 tablespoons bacon fat to vinaigrette a whisk together.
Line the bottom of a large serving (or pasta) bowl with the torn Bibb lettuce. Toss the lettuce with half of the vinaigrette.
Arrange each of the other items, except bacon, in rows across the Bibb with the chicken in the middle. Sprinkle the bacon across the center on top of the chicken.
Serve salad family-style and pass around the remaining vinaigrette.
By mid-August we harvest green beans on a daily basis. Even with gifting friends our excess supply, the beans will be a staple for dinner many nights a week. We’ve roasted, grilled, steamed and boiled them either alone or in combination with other veggies.
I asked The Hubs to whip something together that would use both an abundance of the beans and our plum and grape tomatoes, and that would compliment our dry rubbed loin lamb chops and Herby Potato Salad. Greek-style instantly came to his mind, which typically uses flat Romano beans. However using our freshly picked pole beans, the dish was still hearty, healthy and bursting with fresh and vibrant colors and flavors.
In lieu of blanching the beans first, you could add them raw at the halfway point of cooking the tomatoes. Just keep a sharp eyeball on the beans so that they are crisp-tender and not overcooked, limp and no longer bright green.
Blanche* the green beans in salted boiling water for 2 to 3 minuted depending on how thick they are. Drain and immediately drop in an ice bath until cool. Drain in a colander.
In a large sauté pan, heat oil until shimmering over medium heat. Add garlic slices and cook until lightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add the onion to the garlic with a pinch of salt. Turn the heat down to medium-low and continue to cook until the onions are softened, about 2 to 3 minutes more.
Add the chopped tomatoes, turn the heat back up to medium, stir in a 1⁄2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, a pinch of red pepper flakes, and 1 tablespoon of the oregano. Stir well, partially cover, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally until tomatoes break down and release their juices. *If you choose not to blanche the beans, you can add raw beans 5 minutes into cooking the tomatoes, and cook just until beans are crisp-tender, about 5-6 minutes more.
Stir in the blanched beans and remaining oregano and cook for 1-2 minutes more while beans heat through. Remove from heat and stir in 1 teaspoon of red wine vinegar. Serve immediately.
We’ve been particularly enamored of Mediterranean-inspired dishes as of late and this vegetarian pasta dish is loaded with the robust flavors of that region. It’s a riff on a recipe from “The Italian Country Table” by Lynn Rosetto Kasper, who found inspiration for the citrusy, savory tomato sauce in the markets of Siracusa, on the island of Sicily.
We found this recipe in a recent copy of Milk Street Magazine where they prefer the meaty, concentrated flavor of oil-cured black olives, but insist milder green olives (such as Castelvetrano) work well, too. Having oil-cured black olives on hand, we used them. The only major difference we made was to use fresh oregano at a ratio of 3-to-1, that is 1 tablespoon of fresh for the 1 teaspoon of dried.
The sharp tang of pecorino Romano cheese is an especially good match for the fruity, herbal flavors. While warm, crusty bread makes a nice partner to the dish, we opted for less carbs and paired the pasta with a side salad.
It was wonderful again the next day for lunch. Just drizzle a little EVOO over the top, cover and microwave for a few minutes, top with more grated cheese.
TIP: Don’t boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it’s a few minutes shy of al dente, but don’t forget to reserve about 1 cup of cooking water first. The pasta will finish cooking directly in the sauce, which allows the noodles to absorb flavor.
1 Tbsp. grated orange zest, plus ½ cup orange juice
1 tsp. dried oregano
½ tsp. red pepper flakes
2 pints grape tomatoes
1 cup lightly packed fresh basil, torn into small pieces
½ cup pitted oil-cured black olives or green olives, finely chopped
2 oz. pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (1 cup)
Directions
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Stir in the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta and set aside.
Meanwhile, in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic, orange zest, oregano and pepper flakes, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and orange juice, cover and cook until the tomatoes begin to burst, about 4 minutes.
Reduce to medium, then press on any whole tomatoes with the back of a spoon so they burst. If the pasta is not yet done, remove the skillet from the heat, cover and set aside.
To the skillet, add the drained pasta and ½ cup of the reserved pasta water. Bring to a simmer over medium and cook, tossing with tongs, until the pasta is al dente, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.
Off heat, add the basil, olives and half of the cheese, then toss to combine, adding reserved pasta water if needed so the sauce coats the noodles. Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the remaining cheese and drizzle with additional oil.
A rare cool, rainy Sunday afforded us the opportunity to cook a slow braised dish for a summer dinner. While thumbing through several favorite cookbooks, I happened upon this Roman Braised Beef with Tomatoes and Cloves in Milk Streets “The New Rules” by Courtney Hill.
The “new rule: don’t sear your meat” goes against something we typically do, brown our meat beforehand. But because you cook it uncovered for the last hour or so, the meat will brown at the end of the process.
Pot roast comes to mind with this meal, and in Rome, cloves are used to flavor the dish known as “Garofolato di Manzo alla Romana” because cloves are called chiodi di garofano. Here, the earthy, subtly smoky and slightly bitter flavor of cloves complements the natural sweetness of onion, fennel and tomatoes.
Milk Street advises not to use ground cloves that have gone stale, as they won’t add much flavor or fragrance to the braise. If your cloves have been in the pantry for more than a few months, uncap and take a whiff. The aroma should be sharp and strong. If not, pony up and get a new jar.
Unlike pot roast where you cook the large piece of meat whole, the beef is cut into chunks and simmered as a stew resulting in succulent meat throughout. Polenta is an excellent accompaniment for absorbing the flavorful sauce. In a unique pairing, we wedded the meat with another Milk Street recipe Spanish Green Beans with Ham, Almonds and Smoked Paprika.
This recipe is an adaptation of the remarkably delicious green beans from Extremadura, Spain, home of pimentón, aka Spanish smoked paprika. For perfectly crisp and tender beans, cooking techniques are combined. You start by searing the veggies in a hot pan to develop browning and flavor. Then add water and a tight fitting lid to steam them until tender. Voila!
6-7 lbs. boneless beef chuck roast, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks
¾ tsp. ground cloves
kosher salt and ground black pepper
4 oz. pancetta, roughly chopped
6 med. garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 med. yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 med. fennel bulb, trimmed, halved, cored and thinly sliced
28 oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed
2 tsp. fresh thyme, minced
Directions
Heat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Place the beef in a large bowl and season with the cloves, 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper.
In a large Dutch oven over low, cook the pancetta, stirring occasionally, until sizzling and the fat has begun to render, about 5 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces begin to brown, another 7 minutes.
Add the garlic, onion and fennel, then increase to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and translucent, about 6 minutes.
Stir in the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Stir in the beef, then cover, transfer to the oven and cook for 2 hours.
Remove the pot from the oven. Stir, then return to the oven uncovered. Cook until a skewer inserted into a piece of beef meets no resistance, another 1 to 1½ hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a medium bowl. With a wide spoon, skim off and discard the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid, then bring to a boil over medium-high, scraping up any browned bits. Cook until the liquid has thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, 10 to 12 minutes.
Stir in the thyme, then return the beef to the pot. Reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is heated through, about 5 minutes.
Spanish Green Beans with Ham, Almonds and Smoked Paprika
First, the almonds. Begin by toasting them in olive oil to deepen their nutty flavor, then add the garlic and thinly sliced serrano ham, cooking the mixture until the meat crisps and the garlic is fragrant. Then remove that mixture from the pan and add the green beans and char them in the flavorful fond left behind.
For the final flourish of smoked paprika, first deglaze the pan with another 1⁄4 cup water, scraping up any remaining flavorful bits, then remove the pan from the burner and stir the spice in off heat. This preserves the paprika’s smoky aroma, resulting in a pan sauce that is as quick as it is deeply smoky-savory.
Don’t stir the beans too often after adding them to the pan. Stirring only a few times allows the beans to take on some char that adds flavor the finished dish. If you’re entertaining more than four people with the braised beef dinner, you’ll want to double this bean recipe.
My mistake here was using a nonstick skillet so the beans didn’t get as good a sear as I wanted. But in the end since there were no browned bits left in the pan, there was no reason to perform Step 5. Instead, I just sprinkled the smoked paprika right onto the finished beans, stirred and served. OMG, so friggin’ good!!
Spanish Green Beans with Ham, Almonds and Smoked Paprika
2 oz. thinly sliced serrano ham or prosciutto, sliced into ¼-inch-wide ribbons
2 med. garlic cloves, minced
1 lb. green beans, trimmed and halved
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
½ tsp. smoked paprika
Directions
In a 12-inch skillet (don’t use nonstick) over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the almonds and cook, stirring often, until lightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add the ham and garlic and cook, stirring, until the ham crisps and the garlic is fragrant, another 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl; set aside.
To the same skillet over medium-high, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and heat until smoking. Add the beans and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cook, stirring only a few times, until the beans are lightly charred, about 4 minutes.
Return the ham-almond mixture to the pan and add ¼ cup water. Cover, reduce to low and cook, occasionally shaking the pan, until the beans are tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a serving dish.
Set the skillet over medium-high and add ¼ cup water. Bring to a simmer and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until the liquid has reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 2 minutes.
Remove from the heat and stir in the paprika. Drizzle the sauce over the beans and serve.
