Peruvian-Style Arroz con Pollo

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According to America’s Test Kitchen, there are many versions of chicken and rice across Latin America; Peruvian Arroz con Pollo stands apart thanks to the addition of cilantro purée and aji Amarillo paste. The tender chicken and savory rice has underlying heat from the pepper paste; and the rice should be moist but not mushy. The accompanying sarza criolla should provide a bright, punchy counterpoint to the rich chicken and rice. It is a nice accompaniment, but we felt not necessary.

Suggestions: This is usually made with the Peruvian beer, Cusqueña Negra, but any smooth, malty beer such as Modelo Negra, New Castle Brown Ale, or Sam Adams Boston Lager will work.
Ají amarillo paste, made from yellow Peruvian chiles, is available in supermarkets or online. The spice level can vary between brands; taste before using. If it’s mild (or if it’s spicy and you prefer a spicier dish) use the full 2 tablespoons. If you’re sensitive to spice, use the lower amount.
It is important to measure the liquid in the Dutch oven after cooking the chicken to ensure you have the proper amount for cooking the rice; do not skip this step.
If using, make the sarza criolla (see recipe below) while the rice cooks.

Peruvian-Style Arroz con Pollo

  • Servings: 4-6
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 cups (2 oz.) fresh cilantro leaves and stems
  • ½ cup water
  • 4-6 bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed
  • 2 ¼ tsp. table salt, divided
  • ¾ tsp. pepper
  • 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • 1 red onion, chopped fine
  • 1 Tbsp. minced garlic
  • 1-2 Tbsp. ají amarillo paste
  • ½ tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 ½ cups dark beer
  • 2 cups chicken broth, plus extra as needed
  • 1 ½ cups long-grain white rice, rinsed
  • 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips
  • 2 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces (1 cup)
  • ½ cup frozen peas
  • 1 recipe Sarza Criolla (recipe follows)

Directions

  1. Process cilantro and water in blender until cilantro is finely chopped and very loose puree forms, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed; set aside.
  2. Pat chicken dry and season both sides with 1 ½ teaspoons salt and pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook, without moving, until well browned, 8 to 12 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken and brown on second side, about 2 minutes. Transfer chicken to large plate.
  3. Add onion, garlic, chile paste, cumin, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt to fat left in pot and cook, stirring often, until onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add beer, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until mixture is almost dry, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in cilantro puree and return chicken to pot, skin side up (chicken will be almost entirely above surface of puree).
  4. Adjust heat to simmer, cover, and cook until chicken registers at least 195 degrees, 18 to 20 minutes.
  5. Using tongs, transfer chicken to clean plate. Transfer cooking liquid in Dutch oven to 4-cup liquid measuring cup (you should have about 1 ½ cups). Add enough broth to measure 3 ½ cups. Return broth mixture to pot and stir in rice, pepper, and carrots. Bring to boil, adjust heat to simmer, cover, and cook until rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
  6. Off heat, stir in peas (browning at bottom of rice is OK). Arrange chicken on top of rice and pour any accumulated juices into pot. Cover and let stand until peas and chicken are warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes. Serve, passing sarza criolla separately.

Sarza Criolla
Makes about 2 cups

Thinly sliced onions are key to this accompaniment; use a mandoline, if possible.

Ingredients

  • 1 red onion, halved and sliced through root end 1/16 inch thick
  • ⅛ tsp. table salt, plus salt for salting onion
  • ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 Tbsp. lime juice
  • ⅛ tsp. pepper

Directions

  1. Toss onions and ½ teaspoon table salt in strainer or colander set over bowl. Let stand for 10 minutes. Rinse onions under cold water and pat dry.
  2. Combine onions, cilantro, lime juice, pepper, and salt in bowl. (Sarza criolla can be made up to 1 hour ahead).

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Recipe as tested for ATK’s Cook’s Illustrated

Skillet Green Chile Chicken

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This is a vibrant, Tex-Mex-inspired one-pan dish that layers bold, smoky flavors with creamy richness. The sauce is the heart of the dish — a silky, bright green salsa verde built from broiled and charred tomatillos, onion, and poblano chiles. Roasting them under the broiler first adds deep smokiness and sweetness before they’re blended with fresh cilantro and garlic into a tangy, herbaceous sauce that bubbles away in the skillet as the chicken bakes.

The chicken is butterflied and stuffed, so each breast opens like a book to cradle a slice of cream cheese and thin strips of the second roasted poblano. The cream cheese melts into a luscious, mild filling that contrasts beautifully with the chile’s subtle heat. Both sides of the chicken are seasoned with a warm spice rub of chili powder, cumin, and coriander, providing a savory, earthy exterior.

The finish is what elevates it — the whole skillet goes under the broiler after baking, blanketing the chicken in melted, golden-spotted pepper Jack cheese that adds a sharp, spicy pull to every bite. At the table, cool sliced avocado and a squeeze of fresh lime cut through the richness, while extra cilantro keeps that fresh green note alive throughout.

The overall experience is deeply savory and smoky with layers of mild heat, creamy pockets, tangy brightness from the tomatillos, and just enough richness from the two cheeses to make it feel indulgent — all in a single skillet.

We took the easy way out and used Trader Joe’s Salsa Verde in lieu of making it from scratch, saving a chunk of time and decreasing the number of ingredients. In fact, since we like “saucy” dishes, we used two jars, which also provided enough to top our side of Mexican rice.

NOTES: While it isn’t an exact substitute, 1 1/2 cups of your favorite jarred salsa verde can be used in place of the homemade version. Char one pepper as the recipe describes for the chicken filling. The green chile sauce can be made up to three days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Simply reheat gently in the microwave or stove before continuing with the recipe.

Skillet Green Chile Chicken

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 8 oz. fresh tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed
  • 2 large poblano chiles (about 9 oz. total)
  • 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
  • 1 small yellow onion, unpeeled and cut into 6 wedges
  • 2 tsp. canola oil
  • 1 1/2 tsp. chili powder
  • 1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. ground coriander
  • 2 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
  • 4 8-oz. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, patted dry 
  • 1/2 cup fresh cilantro (tender leaves and stems included), plus more leaves for garnish
  • 4 oz. cream cheese, softened
  • 4 oz. pepper Jack cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
  • 1 ripe avocado, sliced
  • Pickled jalapeño slices for garnish, optional
  • Lime wedges

Directions

  1. Preheat broiler with a rack 6 inches from heat source. Arrange tomatillos, chiles, garlic cloves, and onion wedges on a large rimmed baking sheet covered with foil. Drizzle vegetables evenly with oil. Broil until charred, about 12 minutes, flipping vegetables halfway through cooking time. Remove and discard charred papery skin from onion. Transfer vegetables and juices to a medium bowl, and cover using plastic wrap; let steam 10 minutes. Heat oven to 425°F.
  2. Meanwhile, stir together chili powder, cumin, coriander, and 1 3/4 teaspoons salt in a small bowl. Arrange chicken breasts on a cutting board; slice each breast horizontally through the middle to within a 1/2-inch of other side. Open chicken breasts, and sprinkle evenly with 2 teaspoons spice mixture.
  3. Once vegetables are steamed, remove and discard garlic and chile peels. Transfer peeled garlic, 1 peeled chile, tomatillos, onion, and any accumulated juices to a blender; add cilantro and remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt. Secure lid on blender, and remove center piece to allow steam to escape. Place a clean towel over opening; process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Pour into a large ovenproof skillet. Set aside.
  4. Slice remaining peeled chile lengthwise into thin strips. Cut cream cheese into 4 equal slices; place 1 slice on one-half of each butterflied chicken breast. Top evenly with sliced chile, and close chicken breast. Sprinkle remaining 2 teaspoons spice mixture all over chicken; nestle stuffed breasts into sauce in skillet.
  5. Bake until sauce is bubbly and a thermometer inserted into thickest portion of breasts registers 160°F, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove skillet from oven, and increase oven temperature to broil.
  6. Sprinkle chicken and sauce with cheese. Broil until cheese is melted and starting to brown in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oven, and garnish with avocado, additional cilantro and pickled jalapeño slices. Serve with lime wedges.

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Adapted from a recipe by Breana Lai Killeen for Food and Wine

Sunday Sauce

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Though there is nary a drop of Italian blood in either of us, we do nurture a love affair with good Italian cuisine. In many Italian American households, Sunday means there’s red sauce simmering all day on the stove. It might be called sauce, sugo or gravy, and surely every family makes it differently, but the result is always a tomato sauce rich with an abundance of meat.

Some recipes are less about the cooking and more about the ritual — the low simmer that fills the house for hours, the wooden spoon that never quite gets put away, the whole family finding their way to the kitchen. This is one of those recipes. A proper Sunday Sauce built on shreddy pork shoulder, Italian sausage, and tender meatballs, slow-cooked until everything melds into something deeply savory and rich. Make it on the stovetop or let the slow cooker do the heavy lifting while you get on with your Sunday.

When it’s ready, toss pasta through the sauce until every strand is coated, spoon the meat generously on top, and bring it to the table with a green salad, plenty of crusty bread, and a good red wine. It’s a meal that’s meant to be shared, and shared unhurriedly. Any leftovers will keep in the fridge for up to a week, or freeze beautifully for up to three months — though in our experience, it rarely makes it that far.

In the end, once we removed the meat, the sauce seemed too thin. We therefore covered the bowl of meat with tinfoil and put it in a 200°F oven to keep warm. To thicken the sauce, we added a 1/4 cup of double-concentrate tomato paste and let it simmer for 30-40 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Ideally you would want to add the tomato paste at the end of Step 2 (before adding the crushed tomatoes), cooking it about 2 minutes until it starts to darken.

Sunday Sauce

  • Servings: 6-8
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3-inch chunks
  • Kosher salt and black pepper
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
  • 1 lb. hot or sweet Italian sausage, or a combination
  • 1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
  • ⅓ cup red wine
  • 1⁄4 cup tomato paste (see head note)
  • 2 28-oz. cans crushed tomatoes
  • 3 basil sprigs
  • 1 lb. uncooked homemade or store-bought meatballs
  • 1½ lbs. tubular or long noodles, like rigatoni or spaghetti
  • Grated Parmesan or pecorino, for serving

Directions

  1. Season the pork shoulder all over with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium high. Working in batches if necessary, cook the pork until browned on two sides, 8 to 10 minutes total, adding more oil if the pan looks dry. Transfer pieces to a bowl as they finish. Add the sausages to the pot and cook until browned, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to the bowl.
  2. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, if needed, and the onion and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until softened, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the red wine, stir, scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan and cook until the wine is nearly evaporated, 2 to 4 minutes. If using, add the tomato paste, stirring occasionally until it darkens, about 2 minutes more.
  3. Add the tomatoes and basil, then fill one of the 28-ounce cans with water. (You’ll use it in a second.) Return the pork shoulder and sausages to the pot, along with any accumulated juices in the bowl. Nudge them around so they are submerged. Add the meatballs on top, then add enough water from the can to cover the meat. (There’s no need to stir.) Partly cover the pot, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork shoulder falls apart when shredded with a fork, about 2½ hours.
  4. When you’re ready to eat, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package instructions until al dente. While the pasta cooks, slice the sausage and shred the pork shoulder. Transfer to a platter along with the meatballs and a few spoonfuls of sauce. Reserve ½ cup pasta water, then drain and add the pasta to the pot of sauce. Over medium heat, toss the pasta with the sauce, adding pasta water as needed until the sauce clings to the pasta.
  5. Divide pasta between bowls, then top with a bit of each meat. Pass the Parmesan and platter of meat at the table.

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Adapted from a recipe by Ali Slagle for NYTimes Cooking

Harissa-Roasted Salmon with Lemon, Olive and Parsely Relish

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Quick and easy with few ingredients are welcome words for a weeknight meal. The fact that it is also tasty and visually appealing doesn’t hurt matters.

Harissa, the North African spice paste considered a pantry staple, adds flavor to salmon fillets along with garlic and lemon juice. After roasting, the fillets are served with a simple three-ingredient relish made by combining parsley, lemon zest and chopped green (or black) olives. The bold, zingy intensity of the herbal garnish is used to balance the fattiness of the salmon.

Our piece of salmon weighed in at 1 pound and we therefore left it intact instead of sizing down into 4 separate fillets. (Yes, this did extend the roasting time a bit.) While we served ours with steamed broccoli and a side salad, you could also pair with couscous and perhaps a cucumber or tomato salad.

Harissa-Roasted Salmon with Lemon, Olive and Parsely Relish

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 3 Tbsp. harissa paste
  • 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 3 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
  • 1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest, plus 2 tsp. lemon juice, plus lemon wedges to serve
  • null Kosher salt
  • 4 6-oz. center-cut skin-on salmon fillets (each 1 to 1¼ inches thick), patted dry
  • 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley OR cilantro, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 cup pitted green OR black olives, roughly chopped

Directions

  1. Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and mist it with cooking spray. In a small bowl, stir together the harissa, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, the lemon juice and 1 teaspoon salt. Place the salmon skin side down on the rack. Rub the harissa mixture onto the top and sides of the fillets. Let stand at room temperature while the oven heats.
  2. Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the middle position. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the parsley, olives, the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the lemon zest and ¼ teaspoon salt.
  3. Roast the salmon until the flesh flakes easily and the harissa mixture has deepened in color, 12 to 14 minutes. Serve the fillets with the parsley-olive mixture and lemon wedges.

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Adapted from a recipe by Dimitri Demopolous for Milk Street

Italian Bean, Barley and Vegetable Soup

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This is a rustic, deeply satisfying Italian soup inspired by the zuppa d’orzo e fagioli of Treviso, in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. Here’s what makes it special:

The beans do double duty. Cannellini beans are pureed with their canning liquid to create a silky, creamy broth that feels rich without being heavy — a clever technique that builds body naturally. Then plumper, meatier Roman beans (borlotti/cranberry beans) are stirred in near the end for textural contrast and substance.

Barley gives it soul. Pearl barley is a traditional addition in this part of Italy — it’s starchy, chewy, and filling, making the soup feel like a true meal rather than a starter.

The greens add color and nutrition. Curly kale is the preferred choice here for its tender texture, though lacinato (Tuscan) kale (our choice) works too with another four or five minutes of simmering time.

The flavor profile is earthy and savory — the kind of soup that tastes like it’s been simmering all afternoon, with layers built from humble pantry ingredients.

Overall, it’s a cucina povera (“poor kitchen”) style dish — simple, nourishing, and deeply flavorful — the sort of thing an Italian grandmother might make on a cold winter day, stretching inexpensive ingredients into something truly memorable. It would pair beautifully with crusty bread and a drizzle of good olive oil on top.

TIP: Don’t use whole-grain or quick-cooking barley. The former requires an extremely long cooking time, and the latter lacks the heartiness and chew of pearled barley.

Italian Bean, Barley and Vegetable Soup

  • Servings: 4-6
  • Difficulty: moderately easy
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Ingredients

  • 1 15½-oz. can cannellini beans
  • 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
  • 1 medium carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into ¼-inch half-rounds
  • 1 small yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 medium celery stalk, chopped into ¼-inch pieces
  • 2 medium garlic cloves, chopped
  • 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh sage
  • 1 6-inch rosemary sprig
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup pearled barley
  • 1 quart low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
  • 1 15½-oz. can Roman beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 small bunch curly kale, stemmed and sliced into thin ribbons (about 6 cups)
  • Finely grated Parmesan or pecorino Romano cheese, to serve

Directions

  1. In a blender, combine the cannellini beans with their liquid and 2 cups water. Blend until smooth, about 30 seconds.
  2. In a large saucepan over medium, combine the oil, carrot, onion, celery, garlic, sage, rosemary and ½ each teaspoon salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the barley, followed by the pureed cannellini beans and the broth. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then reduce to medium and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the barley is al dente, 25 to 30 minutes.
  3. Stir in the roman beans and kale. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until both the kale and barley are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Remove and discard the rosemary. Serve the soup drizzled with additional oil and sprinkled with cheese.

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Recipe by Rose Hattabaugh for Milk Street

Broken Lasagna Noodle Soup with Spinach

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Lasagna has always been more about the layering of flavors than the layering of sheets — and this soup makes that case decisively. Italian sausage goes into the pot first, browning until the fat renders and the fond builds on the bottom of the pan; that’s your flavor foundation.

Broken lasagna noodles go in rough and ragged, and as they cook they shed just enough starch to pull the soup toward something richer — thicker than a broth, looser than a sauce, with that silky, clingy quality that makes you want to chase every noodle around the bowl.

An almost full tube of double-concentrated tomato paste blooms directly in the sausage fat, turning deep brick-red and caramelizing at the edges before a pour of chicken broth lifts everything into a broth that tastes like it simmered for hours. (You can use regular tomato paste, but the flavor will be milder.)

Fresh spinach wilts in at the end, barely needing a minute. The finishing move is a generous spoonful of seasoned ricotta dropped straight into each bowl, where it softens at the edges and slowly folds into the broth — the same creamy counterpoint it’s always provided, just without the oven and the longer wait time.

TIP: The pasta will continue to absorb liquid as the soup sits, causing it to thicken. If making ahead, reserve the noodles until reheating; drop them into the bubbling broth just before serving and cook until al dente, adding splashes of water as necessary to thin the broth.

Serve with crusty garlic toast and a side salad to round out the meal.

Broken Lasagna Noodle Soup with Spinach

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 lb. hot or sweet Italian sausage, (casings removed if in links)
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
  • 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1 4.5-oz. tube double-concentrated tomato paste (about ½ cup)
  • 4 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
  • 10 oz. dried lasagna noodles (about 10 noodles), broken into 2″–3″ pieces
  • 1 cup whole-milk fresh ricotta
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • 5 oz. fresh baby spinach

Directions

  1. Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Arrange about 1” pieces of 1 lb. hot or sweet Italian sausage, casings removed, in pot in a single layer. Cook, undisturbed, 3 minutes, then continue to cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or heatproof rubber spatula, until browned all over and just cooked through, 3–4 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a plate. (Depending on the size of your pot, you may have to do this in two batches.)
  2. Place 1 medium onion, chopped, in same pot and season with kosher salt. Cook, stirring often, until slightly softened and starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and one 4.5-oz. tube double-concentrated tomato paste (about ½ cup) and cook, stirring often, until paste is starting to stick to pot and has darkened significantly, about 3 minutes. Pour in 2 cups water, scraping up any browned bits stuck to bottom of pot.
  3. Pour in 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth and add 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Add 10 oz. dried lasagna noodles (about 10 noodles), broken into 2”–3” pieces, and cook, stirring often, until very al dente, about 9 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, place 1 cup whole-milk fresh ricotta in a small bowl and season with salt and freshly ground pepper; mix well.
  5. Stir another 2 cups water into soup (it will have thickened up by this point); return sausage to pot. Reduce heat to low and cook just until meat is warmed through, about 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat and stir in 5 oz. fresh baby spinach; season soup with more salt and pepper if needed.
  6. Ladle soup into bowls. Top each with a dollop of ricotta mixture and season with more pepper.

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Adapted from a recipe by Rebecca Firsker for Bon Appétit

Spanish Garlic Chicken (Pollo al Ajillo)

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Pollo al ajillo is a classic Spanish garlic chicken dish that’s bursting with robust, savory flavors. The recipe highlights the rich aroma and taste of garlic, using 10 cloves to infuse the chicken with a deep, fragrant essence. This weeknight garlic chicken recipe cooks in one large skillet. And because it uses boneless, skinless chicken thighs, it’s ready in just over 30 minutes.

The chicken pieces are browned in olive oil until golden and crispy on the outside. Then, whole garlic cloves are gently sautéed along with bay leaf and fresh thyme sprigs, which add an earthy, herbal note to the dish.

Once the chicken has developed a beautiful color and the garlic is softened but not burnt, a splash of white wine is added. The white wine not only deglazes the pan, lifting all the flavorful browned bits but also imparts a subtle acidity and complexity that balances the richness of the garlic and chicken.

The chicken is returned to the pot and simmers for about 10 minutes in this fragrant mixture, absorbing the combined flavors. The dish is finished with a generous garnish of freshly chopped parsley, adding a bright, fresh contrast and a pop of color.

It is astonishingly flavorful considering the small number of ingredients! The result is a beautifully aromatic, tender, and juicy chicken with a garlicky punch, complemented by thyme’s herbal aroma and the wine’s delicate acidity—a beloved staple of traditional Spanish home cooking perfect for serving with crusty bread, rice or potatoes.

Served with a roasted carrot and hazelnut side dish and Spanish rice.

Spanish Garlic Chicken (Pollo al Ajillo)

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 10 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 cup dry white wine 
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 small bunch fresh thyme sprigs
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Directions

  1. Season the chicken. Pat the chicken dry and season all over with salt and pepper. Lightly coat both sides with the flour and shake off any excess.
  2. Sear the chicken. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high until shimmering but not smoking. Working in batches if necessary, cook the chicken until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Remove chicken to a plate and set aside.
  3. Make the sauce. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in the wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape any browned bits stuck to the pan. Add the bay leaf and thyme, and return the chicken and any accumulated juices. Once the sauce comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and cook for 10 minutes.
  4. Finish and serve. Uncover the pan and increase the heat back to medium-high. Cook, uncovered, until the sauce has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat. Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Garnish with the parsley. Serve with the pan sauce drizzled over top.

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Adapted from a recipe by Mark Beahm for The Mediterannean Dish

Stir-Fried Pork with Snow Peas and Shiitake Mushrooms

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Ground pork is an underrated stir-fry protein — it browns quickly in a hot wok, rendering just enough fat to become the cooking medium for everything that follows. Here, it shares the pan with crisp-tender snow peas and meaty shiitake caps, a combination that hits every textural note: silky, snappy, and substantial all at once.

A streamlined mixture of oyster sauce and soy sauce delivers deep, salty-sweet umami without any heavy lifting, and a cornstarch slurry pulls it all into a glossy, cling-to-the-pork coating that carries the flavors through every bite.

Scallions whites wilt slightly and add a mild, grassy note. The finish is a splash of rice vinegar — just enough brightness to cut through the richness and make the whole dish feel alive. Spoon it over jasmine rice and set out the chili-garlic sauce or sriracha for anyone who wants heat.

A few things we did differently was use our well-seasoned wok instead of a skillet. The amount of snow peas came in a 6-ounce packet so we included all of them; plus we doubled the garlic. The black pepper was switched out for white pepper which has a different flavor profile, more of a bite if you will.

And as far as the scallions, we stir-fried the white pieces along with the snow peas and mushrooms thinking they would have been too raw if added at the very end; then garnished the finished dish with thinly-sliced scallion greens.

TIP: Don’t brown the pork over high heat. Cook it more gently over medium, breaking the meat into fine bits with a wooden spoon, until some of the pieces are crisped and caramelized, which adds texture and flavor to the stir-fry.

Stir-Fried Pork with Snow Peas and Shiitake Mushrooms

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 3 Tbsp. oyster sauce
  • 2 Tbsp. soy sauce
  • 1 Tbsp. cornstarch
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. neutral oil
  • 1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger
  • 2 medium garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 lb. ground pork
  • 4 oz. snow peas, trimmed, cut into thirds (smaller ones halved) on the diagonal
  • 8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps sliced ¼ inch thick
  • 1 bunch scallions, whites cut into 1-inch pieces; greens thinly sliced on a diagonal for garnish
  • 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

Directions

  1. In a small bowl, whisk the oyster sauce, soy sauce, cornstarch, ½ teaspoon pepper and ½ cup water. In a 12-inch skillet (or wok) over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the ginger and garlic; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
  2. Add the pork and cook, breaking the meat into small bits, until crisped, about 10 minutes. Spoon off and discard all but 1 to 2 tablespoons of the fat.
  3. Add the snow peas, mushrooms and scallion whites. Cook over medium, stirring, just until the vegetables are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk the sauce mixture to recombine, then stir it into the pork-vegetable mixture. Cook, stirring, until the sauce simmers and thickens, 1 to 2 minutes.
  4. Off heat, stir in the vinegar. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Plate over steamed rice and garnish with scallion greens.

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Recipe from Rose Hattabaugh for Milk Street

One-Pot Chorizo Noodles

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The genius of this unusual dish is its economy — one pot, about 35 minutes, and a pantry-friendly ingredient list that produces something that tastes far more considered than the effort involved, complete with a luxurious mouth-feel.

The technique is essentially pasta cooked risotto-style. Rather than boiling the spaghetti in a separate pot of salted water and draining it, you cook it directly in the seasoned broth, and as the noodles absorb the liquid and release their starch, the remaining broth transforms into a loose, clingy sauce that adheres to every strand. The chorizo’s rendered fat and chile-and-spice juices have already been absorbed into that liquid, so the pasta is flavored from the inside out, not just dressed on top.

A couple of things to watch: stir early and stir often once the pasta goes in — spaghetti has a talent for clumping and sticking in the first few minutes before it softens and separates. And pull it while it still has a touch of bite; the noodles will continue to absorb sauce as they sit on the platter.

Adding half of the scallions off the heat and reserving half for garnish is a simple but smart move — you get both the mellow, wilted depth of cooked scallion woven through the pasta and the fresh, sharp bite of raw scallion on top.

This would be nicely complemented by a simple side of sliced avocado or a squeeze of lime at the table, which would cut through the richness of the chorizo fat beautifully. Add a crisp side salad to round out the meal.

NOTES: Mexican-style chorizo is a fresh, raw, heavily spiced sausage — not the cured Spanish variety. The two are not interchangeable here. Mexican chorizo renders its fat and spiced juices directly into the pot, becoming the flavor backbone of the entire dish.
Our chorizo was precooked, so once we removed the casings, we chopped up the links and then browned them in the pot — no need to further break up the meat.

One-Pot Chorizo Noodles

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 1 lb. Mexican-style chorizo sausage, casings removed
  • 1 cup finely chopped onion
  • ½ tsp. table salt
  • ½ tsp. pepper
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • 2 cups water
  • 12 oz. spaghetti
  • 3 scallions, sliced thin, divided

Directions

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in Dutch oven over medium heat until foaming. Add 1 pound Mexican-style chorizo sausage, casings removed, and cook, stirring frequently and breaking up meat into ½-inch pieces, until just starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
  2. Add 1 cup finely chopped onion, ½ teaspoon table salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 4 cups chicken broth and 2 cups water and bring to boil over high heat. Add 12 ounces spaghetti and continue to boil, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until pasta is al dente and most liquid has evaporated so pasta is coated in slightly thickened sauce, 12 to 14 minutes. 
  3. Off heat, stir in 1½ thinly sliced scallions. Transfer to serving platter and garnish with remaining 1½ thinly sliced scallions. Serve.

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Adapted from a recipe by Erica Turner for Cook’s Illustrated

Normandy Chicken with Apples

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Poulet Vallée d’Auge, a rustic braise that marries chicken with apples, Calvados, hard cider and cream. As it is classically known in English, Normandy Chicken with Apples smells like an autumn orchard, although it is a meal that is welcomed anytime of year.

The sequencing of the apples is the real ingenuity of this recipe. By pulling them out after a brief sauté and not returning them until the sauce is nearly finished, you preserve that sweet-tart brightness — they taste of apple rather than dissolving anonymously into the braise. It’s a small act of restraint that makes a big difference in the bowl. Keeping them unpeeled helps the wedges hold their shape through the brief sauté. Their early removal and late return is the key to bright, distinct fruit flavor in the finished dish. (If you prefer softer apples, cook them a few minutes longer in Step 2.)

The uncovered Dutch pot in the oven is also worth trusting. It’s counterintuitive — braising usually means lid on, low and slow — but the oven’s dry, ambient heat does something a stovetop lid cannot: it keeps the skin taut and golden while the liquid below gently simmers and reduces. You get crispness and succulence in the same bite.

One practical note: when you nestle the chicken back in for the oven braise, make sure those skin surfaces are genuinely sitting above the braising liquid, not totally submerged in it. You can use a combination of thighs and breasts (we just used thighs).

Braised recipes with apples tend to be considered a Fall/Winter dish. However, since good apples are available any time of year, there is no reason not to make the meal in the Springtime. (Hot summers, maybe not the best time.) It is lovely served over buttered egg noodles or alongside crusty bread to catch the cream sauce.

Calvados is an aged apple brandy produced in Normandy. If it is not available, domestic apple brandy is a fine substitute, as is applejack. As for the hard cider, use one that is dry, not sweet, and do not replace it with nonalcoholic cider or apple juice, both of which are too sugary.

TIP: Don’t aim for deep browning on the chicken, apples or mushrooms. Light to medium caramelization at all stages is desirable here. The gentle flavors in the braise are easily overwhelmed by aggressive searing.

Oh, and because we ADORE shallots, the amount was doubled from 2 to 4, and it was perfect!

Normandy Chicken with Apples

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2½ – 3 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and/or breasts, trimmed and patted dry, breasts halved crosswise if larger than 12 oz. each
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. neutral oil
  • 4 Tbsp. salted butter, cut into 1-Tbsp. pieces, divided
  • 2 medium crisp, sweet-tart apples, such as Honeycrisp or Gala (about 12 oz.), unpeeled, halved, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges
  • 8 oz. cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
  • 2 medium shallots, cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges (root ends intact)
  • 1/4 cup Calvados or other apple brandy (see headnote)
  • 12 oz. bottle dry hard apple cider (see headnote)
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Directions

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Season the chicken all over with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken skin side down, in batches if needed to avoid crowding; cook, reducing the heat if needed, until light golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the pieces skin side up to a large plate. Pour off and discard the fat from the pot.
  2. To the now-empty pot, add 2 tablespoons butter and heat over medium until just melted. Add the apples and cook, stirring, until lightly golden and starting to soften, about 3 minutes (or a few minutes longer if you prefer softer apples). Transfer the apples to another plate; set aside.
  3. Return the pot to medium and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the mushrooms, shallots and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and add the Calvados. Return to medium-high and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until syrupy, about 2 minutes. Add the cider, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
  4. Off heat, return the chicken skin side up to the pot and add the accumulated juices. Place uncovered in the oven and cook until the thickest part of the breasts (if using) reaches 160°F or the thickest part of the thighs (if using) reaches 175°F, 20 to 25 minutes.
  5. Transfer the chicken to a platter. Return the pot to medium-high and stir in the apples and cream. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce lightly coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce and vegetables around the chicken. Sprinkle with the parsley.

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Recipe adapted by Courtney Hill for Milk Street

Thai Shrimp with Glass Noodles

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Goong Ob Woon Sen is a beloved Thai comfort dish — deceptively simple but packed with layered, complex flavor. The magic here is in the steaming technique: the shrimp aren’t stir-fried or sautéed but rather laid on top of the noodles and essentially steamed under a tight lid, keeping them incredibly plump and juicy while the noodles below absorb every drop of the savory broth.

The sauce — a blend of soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, and a touch of brown sugar — creates a glossy, umami-rich coating on the glass noodles that’s salty, slightly sweet, and deeply savory all at once. The double pepper (black and white) is the dish’s signature move: black pepper adds bold, earthy heat while white pepper brings a more fragrant, floral warmth that’s distinctly Thai.

Glass noodles are perfect for this preparation — they start neutral and slippery, then become silky and translucent as they soak up the seasoned seafood (or chicken) stock, practically becoming one with the sauce. A final squeeze of lime at the table cuts through the richness and ties everything together with a bright acidic finish.

It’s a one-pot weeknight dream: deeply satisfying, ready in under an hour, and best eaten right away.

Glass noodles go by different names, including bean threads, bean vermicelli, cellophane noodles or saifun. They resemble rice vermicelli but the two are very different, so shop carefully. Check the label to make sure the noodles are made at least in part with mung bean starch. If you can find a brand made with 100 percent mung bean starch, even better.

TIP: Don’t soak the noodles in hot or boiling water, as they will wind up too soft. The aim is to soak them until only partially softened and pliable, but not fully tender; room-temperature or cool tap water is best. Be sure to swish the noodles once or twice during soaking to break up any clumps and ensure they hydrate evenly.

*White pepper is an important ingredient in this dish. But the problem with processed pre-ground pepper is the musty, dusty barnyard-like flavors. Fresh, well-handled peppercorns, by contrast, deliver bright citrus spice with hints of pine. A clear favorite, BoTree White Kampot Pepper is robust yet balanced, and offers impressive complexity — no funk, more flavor!

Thai Shrimp with Glass Noodles

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 8 oz. glass noodles (see headnote)
  • 1/4 cup soy sauce
  • 3 Tbsp. oyster sauce
  • 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
  • 1Tbsp. packed light brown sugar
  • 1 lb. large (26/30 per lb.) shrimp, peeled (tails removed) and deveined, patted dry
  • Ground black pepper
  • Ground white pepper, preferably from fresh peppercorns*
  • 2 cups chicken OR seafood broth, preferably homemade
  • 2 Tbsp. neutral oil
  • 1½ Tbsp. minced fresh ginger
  • 4 medium garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths on the diagonal
  • Lime wedges, to serve

Directions

  1. Place the noodles in a large bowl and add room-temperature water to cover. Let stand until the noodles are pliable, but not fully tender, about 15 minutes, swishing them once or twice to ensure even hydration. Drain in a colander. Using kitchen shears, snip the noodles in several places to cut them into shorter lengths.
  2. While the noodles soak, in a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil and sugar; stir until the sugar dissolves. In a small bowl, toss the shrimp with 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce mixture, ¼ teaspoon black pepper and ⅛ teaspoon white pepper. Stir the broth into the remaining soy sauce mixture.
  3. In a large (7- to 8-quart) Dutch oven over medium, combine the neutral oil, ginger, garlic and ½ teaspoon each black and white pepper. Cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the noodles, tossing, then distribute in an even layer. Scatter the scallions over the noodles, followed by the shrimp, then drizzle in any liquid remaining in the bowl; do not stir. Pour in the broth mixture and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cover, reduce to medium-low and cook, undisturbed, until the shrimp are opaque throughout and the noodles are tender and have absorbed the liquid, 8 to 10 minutes. Toss to integrate the scallions and shrimp into the noodles. Serve with lime wedges.

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Adapted from a recipe by Rose Hattabaugh for Milk Street

Ropa Vieja

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This version of Ropa Vieja is made in only one-pot. While flank steak is typically at its best when briefly seared and sliced thinly across the grain to minimize the chewiness of those fibers, here, it’s the opposite. The beef is cooked until well-done, and the fibers are then shredded so that they’re long and whole (hence the dish’s name, which translates as “old clothes”).

Once the beef is browned and removed from the pot, sliced onions and bell peppers, are added plus a generous dose of minced garlic, and all are cooked down until softened. Next, spices like cumin and dried oregano, and a small amount of tomato paste are added, cooking it all for a minute or two to deepen the flavors of those ingredients. Then in go white wine, canned tomatoes, and water or chicken stock. (If you have homemade beef stock, you can use it here; otherwise, chicken stock is the better option, as its flavor is always superior to that of store-bought beef broth.)

The whole pot can is left on the stovetop to simmer, or goes into a 350°F oven to cook until the beef is tender. The oven adds an extra layer of complexity, since the enveloping heat allows the stew’s surface to brown as it cooks, something that doesn’t happen on a burner.

The final step is to fish out the bay leaves, carrot, and celery, then shred the meat into long, thin strands. Mix it back in, toss in some green olives, and simmer it just a little more until the juices have reduced enough to coat the beef in a rich sauce. (We chopped up the celery and carrot and tossed them back into the pot.)

NOTE: Despite being a lean cut not generally suited to long cooking, the classic flank steak works well in ropa vieja because of how nicely it shreds. You can substitute brisket or skirt steak if desired.

Ropa Vieja

  • Servings: 6-8
  • Difficulty: moderately easy
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Ingredients

  • 2 1/2 lbs. beef flank steak (see note)
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more if needed
  • 1 large yellow onion, sliced
  • 3 red, yellow, and/or orange bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
  • 8 medium cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1/2 tsp. ground allspice
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 14-oz. can peeled whole tomatoes in their juices, crushed
  • 1 cup homemade or store-bought chicken stock, plus more if needed
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 medium carrot, halved crosswise
  • 1 celery rib, halved crosswise
  • 1/2 cup pimento-stuffed olives, sliced into thirds
  • 1 small handful chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems (about 1/2 loosely packed cup)
  • Cooked rice and pinto or black beans, for serving

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Cut flank steak into large pieces that will fit on the bottom of a Dutch oven in 2 batches. Season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, add steak and cook, turning, until browned, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer steak to a plate and set aside.
  2. Add onion and bell peppers to Dutch oven and cook, stirring and scraping up browned bits from bottom of pot, until onion and peppers are tender, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute longer; lower heat and/or add more oil at any point if ingredients threaten to burn.
  3. Stir in tomato paste, cumin, oregano, and allspice and cook, stirring and scraping, for 1 minute.
  4. Add white wine and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot. Boil until raw alcohol smell has cooked off from wine, about 2 minutes, then add canned tomatoes and stock. Return beef to pot, nestling it under the liquid among onions and peppers, along with any of its accumulated juices. Nestle bay leaves, carrot, and celery into pot. Add more stock, just enough to cover all the ingredients, if necessary.
  5. Cover Dutch oven and transfer to oven, then let cook until beef is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours.
  6. Remove bay leaves, carrot, and celery from pot and discard. Remove beef from pot and, using 2 forks, pull apart into very thin, long shreds. Return beef to pot, stirring to combine with vegetables and cooking liquid.
  7. Stir in olives, return Dutch oven to medium heat, and simmer until juices have reduced just enough to coat the beef in a rich, saucy glaze. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in cilantro, then serve with rice and beans.

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Recipe from Daniel Gritzer for Serious Eats

Penne Strascicate

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This is a deeply special pasta — one that rewards patience and rewards you for paying attention to its distinctly Florentine character.

What separates Penne Strascicate from every other meat sauce you’ve had is the warm spice profile. Nutmeg, cinnamon, and coriander appear in small amounts, but their effect is transformative — they don’t make the dish taste sweet or exotic, but instead add a haunting, aromatic depth that lingers on the palate and makes you wonder what’s in there. It’s a medieval culinary tradition that survived in Tuscany long after the rest of Italy moved away from spiced meat sauces.

The besciamella is used not as a dominant sauce but almost as a finishing emulsifier — a few spoonfuls stirred in at the very end that transform the ragù from something rustic into something almost lacquered. It bridges the richness of the beef-pork mixture and the starch of the pasta into a unified, glossy whole.

And then there’s the technique itself — the strascicare. By pulling the parboiled penne into the still-simmering ragù and dragging it continuously through the sauce, each tube finishes cooking inside the meat sauce rather than water. The pasta swells and absorbs the flavors from the inside out, and the released starch thickens the sauce around it. The result is something you simply cannot achieve by boiling pasta to done and ladling sauce on top. It’s a dish where the process is the point — and where Florence quietly reminds you it does things its own way — well.

We happened to have 1 1/2 pounds of meatloaf mix which is 50% more than the recipe calls for but we used it all, and glad we did. With this addition, the dish could easily feed eight people — paired with a side salad. BTW, we thought the dish was even better the next day as leftovers!

TIP: Don’t boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it when it’s a good deal shy of al dente—tender on the outside but still very firm and underdone at the core. (Start checking doneness about 5 minutes before the recommended cooking time on the package.) This ensures the pasta will not end up overdone after cooking in the ragù.

VARIATIONS: The spices are non-negotiable: Nutmeg, cinnamon, and coriander are the soul of this dish — a Florentine fingerprint that sets it apart from Bolognese. Trust the recipe even if the amounts seem small. Don’t skip the drag: Finishing the pasta in the ragù rather than simply tossing at the end is the whole point. Those extra minutes of stirring allow the starch from the pasta to thicken and bind the sauce. Besciamella is the secret weapon: It’s not a heavy addition — just a few spoonfuls lend the final dish a silky, restaurant-quality gloss that coats each piece of pasta. Make the ragù ahead: It improves significantly overnight. The spices mellow and integrate beautifully. Reheat gently and make the besciamella fresh. Penne rigate is ideal: The ridges grip the meaty sauce far better than smooth penne or any other shape.

Penne Strascicate

  • Servings: 6-8
  • Difficulty: moderately easy
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Ingredients

For the ragù:

  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
  • 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
  • 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 8 oz. 80 percent lean ground beef
  • 8 oz. ground pork
  • 1 tsp. coriander seeds, crushed
  • 1 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  • 6 oz. can tomato paste (⅔ cup)
  • 4 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 2 bay leaves

For the besciamella:

  • 1 Tbsp. salted butter
  • 1½ Tbsp. all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup half-and-half
  • 1 oz. Parmesan cheese, finely grated (½ cup)

For the pasta and serving:

  • 1 lb. penne pasta
  • Kosher salt
  • Finely grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

Directions

  1. To make the ragù, in a large Dutch oven over medium-low, combine the oil, the carrots, celery, onion, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are fully softened but not browned, 25 to 30 minutes.
  2. Increase to medium, then add the beef, pork, coriander, fennel, cinnamon and nutmeg; cook, stirring occasionally and breaking the meat into small pieces, until the meat is no longer pink, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the tomato paste and garlic; cook, stirring, until the tomato paste darkens slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost fully evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add 3 cups water and the bay, then bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce to medium-low and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender and the liquid has reduced by about half, 30 to 35 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, make the besciamella. In a small saucepan over medium, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes. While whisking, gradually add the half-and-half, then bring to a simmer. Cook, whisking often, until the sauce thickens and no longer tastes of raw starch, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in the Parmesan; set aside until ready to use.
  4. About 20 minutes into simmering the ragù, cook the pasta. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the penne and 2 tablespoons salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is somewhat softened but still very firm at the core (begin testing about 5 minutes before the recommended cooking time on the package). Drain the pasta in a colander.
  5. When the ragù is ready, remove and discard the bay, then add the besciamella; cook over medium-low, stirring, until the mixture is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the pasta, stirring to coat and break up clumps. Cook, stirring and “dragging” the pasta through the sauce, until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan.

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Adapted from a recipe by Lawman Johnson for Milk Street

Green Olive and Garlic Braised Chicken

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This is a wonderfully rustic, Mediterranean-inspired dish that comes together in one pan in about an hour. The chicken thighs are first seared to develop a golden crust, then slowly braised in a fragrant bath of white wine, chicken broth, garlic, and herbs — which means they finish incredibly tender and juicy.

The real star is the combination of mild, smooth green olives and butter at the end. Large, buttery Castelvetrano olives are especially good paired with this braised chicken. The olives bring a meaty, juicy punch that balances the richness of the braising liquid, while swirling in butter at the finish creates a silky, glossy sauce that clings beautifully to the chicken. The rosemary and bay leaves perfume everything throughout the braise, and the fresh parsley at the end adds a bright, herby lift.

It’s the kind of dish that tastes like it took much longer than it did — great served with crusty bread, creamy polenta, simple white rice, or like we did, with couscous. And using homemade chicken stock adds tons of flavor over store-bought.

A few changes that we made included increasing the amounts for the garlic, rosemary and olives; and switching out the wine in favor of dry vermouth. Dry vermouth has a more complex flavor profile due to its botanicals, often includes herbs and spices that enhance its taste, and is typically less sweet than white wine.

TIP: Don’t cover the pot tightly when simmering the chicken. Keep the lid ajar to trap some heat but still allow for some evaporation, which concentrates the flavors.

VARIATIONS: Olive choice matters: Castelvetrano olives are ideal here — buttery and mild. Cerignola or Manzanilla also work beautifully. Wine swap: No white wine on hand? Dry vermouth or even a splash of white wine vinegar diluted with extra broth works in a pinch. Make it ahead: This dish tastes even better the next day as the flavors meld. Reheat gently on the stovetop. Add heat: A pinch of red pepper flakes added with the garlic gives a nice subtle kick.

Green Olive and Garlic Braised Chicken

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 1½ lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and halved crosswise
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 6 inch sprig rosemary
  • 3/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 cup chicken broth, preferably homemade
  • 1 cup pitted green olives, lightly smashed
  • 2 Tbsp. salted butter, cut into 2 pieces
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Directions

  1. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken and cook until browned on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping the pieces halfway through. Transfer to a large plate.
  2. To the fat in the pot, add the garlic, bay, rosemary and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the broth, then the olives, chicken and any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer, then cover partially and reduce to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the chicken meets no resistance, 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and olives to a platter. Simmer the braising liquid over medium until slightly reduced, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and discard the rosemary and bay, then whisk in the butter. Off heat; stir in the parsley, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over and around the chicken.

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Adapted from a recipe by Rose Hattabaugh for Milk Street

Lemony White Bean Soup with Turkey and Greens

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Lemony White Bean Soup with Turkey and Greens is a bright, hearty soup that balances comforting richness with fresh, citrusy lift. It starts with onion and carrot sautéed until sweet and tender, then garlic is added for depth. Warm spices—cumin and a touch of ginger—bloom in the pot, giving the base a gentle earthiness and subtle zing.

Chicken stock forms the savory backbone, simmering with creamy white beans that thicken the broth slightly as they soften. Tender ground turkey make it filling without feeling heavy, while ribbons of chard greens wilt in at the end for a clean, slightly bitter-green contrast. A generous squeeze of lemon finishes it all, sharpening the flavors and making the soup taste vibrant and light even though it’s deeply satisfying.

This highly adaptable soup can be either light and brothy or thick and stew-like, depending on your preference. Smashing some of the beans to release their starch will give you a thicker soup that’s almost worthy of a fork. To keep it on the brothy side, add a little more liquid and leave the beans intact. Either way, it’s a warming, piquant, one-pot meal that’s perfect anytime of year.

Lemony White Bean Soup with Turkey and Greens

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 3 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 1 large carrot, diced
  • 1 bunch sturdy greens, such as kale, broccoli rabe, mustard greens or collard greens
  • 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
  • ¾ tsp. ground cumin, plus more to taste
  • ⅛ tsp. red-pepper flakes, plus more to taste
  • ½ lb. ground turkey
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 Tbsp. finely grated fresh ginger
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 qt. chicken stock, preferably homemade
  • 2 15-oz. cans white beans, drained and rinsed
  • 1 cup chopped fresh, soft herbs, such as parsley, mint, dill, basil, tarragon, chives or a combination
  • Fresh lemon juice, to taste

Directions

  1. Heat a large pot over medium-high for a minute or so to warm it up. Add the oil and heat until it thins out, about 30 seconds. Add onion and carrot, and sauté until very soft and brown at the edges, 7 to 10 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, rinse the greens and pull the leaves off the stems. Tear or chop into bite-size pieces and set aside.
  3. When the onion is golden, add tomato paste, ¾ teaspoon cumin and ⅛ teaspoon red-pepper flakes to the pot, and sauté until paste darkens, about 1 minute. Add turkey, garlic, ginger and 1 teaspoon salt, and sauté, breaking up the meat with your spoon, until turkey is browned in spots, 4 to 7 minutes.
  4. Add stock and beans, and bring to a simmer. Let simmer until the soup is thick and flavorful, adding more salt if needed, 15 to 25 minutes. If you like a thicker broth, you can smash some of the beans with the back of the spoon to release their starch. Or leave the beans whole for a brothier soup.
  5. Add the greens to the pot and simmer until they are very soft. This will take 5 to 10 minutes for most greens, but tough collard greens might take 15 minutes. (Add a little water if the broth gets too reduced.)
  6. Stir herbs and lemon juice into the pot, taste and add more salt, cumin and lemon until the broth is lively and bright-tasting. Serve topped with a drizzle of olive oil and more red-pepper flakes, if desired.

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Recipe by Melissa Clark for NYTimes Cooking