Accounting for Taste

A great weeknight alternative, this pasta and seafood dinner incorporates a twist to the typical red tomato sauce. According to the Bon Appétit article where we found this dish, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly why Italian American red sauce restaurants are almost universally comforting.

Maybe it’s the checkered tablecloths (although I doubt it) and the heaping platters of food. Or, perhaps, the reassuring familiarity of the menu. From penne alla vodka to spaghetti and meatballs, it’s like seeing old friends. Fra diavolo (one of my faves) is a stalwart among the classics, adorned with pink claws of lobster or shrimp or a jumble of mixed seafood.

Fans will appreciate it for the lick of heat from crushed red pepper flakes, a high point in an otherwise simple tomato sauce. Here, however, the usual canned tomatoes are replaced with jarred roasted red peppers, a subtle but effective change that imparts a smokier, sweeter allure to the dish that plays off the sweetness of the shrimp. Look for smaller shrimp so every mouthful of pasta contains a bite. (Unable to source unfrozen small shrimp while grocery shopping, I resorted to the large shrimp on sale.)

Not an anchovy fan? Me neither, but The Hubs loves them. Yes, 10 anchovies seems a bit extreme to me, so I had reservations. However, they break down completely and meld into the sauce and add the extra depth of flavor. If I didn’t know they were in the dish, I would never have guessed.

As a final flourish with the chopped fresh parsley, we sprinkled on a bit of grated Parm. Complete the meal with a side salad.

Double Pepper Diavolo With Shrimp

Servings: 4
Time: 45 min
Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

1 lb. deveined small shrimp, fresh or frozen
3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 12-oz. jar roasted red peppers, drained
12 oz. bucatini or other long-strand pasta
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
10 oil-packed anchovy fillets
¼ cup double-concentrated tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
1½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into ½” pieces
Chopped parsley (for serving)

Directions

If using frozen shrimp: Remove 1 pound frozen peeled, deveined small shrimp from bag and place in a large bowl. Pour in cool water to cover and let sit until mostly thawed, about 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Return to bowl, add 2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal or 1 teaspoon Morton kosher salt, and toss to coat. Fresh shrimp can be patted dry and placed in bowl with salt. Set aside.
Meanwhile, blend one 12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained, in a blender until smooth. Set aside.
Cook 12 ounce bucatini or other long-strand pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 2 minutes less than package directions. Drain, reserving 1½ cups pasta cooking liquid.
Heat ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Cook 1 medium onion, finely chopped, 8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped, 10 oil-packed anchovy fillets, and 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal or ½ teaspoon Morton kosher salt, stirring often, until onion is softened and anchovies are dissolved, 5–7 minutes. Add ¼ cup double-concentrated tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until darkened slightly, about 4 minutes.
Add 1 cup dry white wine, 1½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon sugar; cook, stirring and scraping bottom and sides of pan, until wine is reduced by half, about 4 minutes.
Pour reserved red pepper purée into pot. Pour 1 cup pasta cooking liquid into blender and swish around to get every last bit of purée; pour into pot. Add 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½” pieces, pasta, and reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often and adding up to ½ cup pasta cooking liquid a little at a time if needed, until shrimp are cooked through and pasta is coated in sauce, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
Divide among plates; top with chopped parsley.

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Recipe by Shilpa Uskokovic for Bon Appétit Magazine