Accounting for Taste

This tomato rice pairs well with seafood, poultry or vegetable-centric mains, or it can be eaten as a light meal with a dollop of yogurt or topped with a fried egg. The Hubs even chopped up some leftover pork tenderloin and stirred it in the remaining rice, creating a pork-fried rice of a sorts.

To make this version of South Indian tomato rice, two tomato forms are used: paste, which offers concentrated flavor and deep color, plus chopped cherry or grape tomatoes for freshness. The cooking starts with a tarka—that is, blooming the spices and aromatics in hot oil to draw out their essence—before basmati rice goes into the saucepan.

We like the subtle fruity, smoky notes that árbol chilies release into the rice, but if you have only red pepper flakes on hand, they will work, but will add a more direct, less nuanced spiciness. We didn’t find it very spicy at all. Be sure to rinse and drain the rice before use. Rinsing removes excess starch for especially light, fluffy grains.

Cumin-Spiced Tomato Rice

Servings: 4-6
Time: 50 min
Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

2½ Tbsp. tomato paste
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. grapeseed or other neutral oil
2 tsp. cumin seeds OR yellow or brown mustard seeds OR a combination
2 – 3 árbol chilies, broken in half, seeds discarded OR ¼ to ½ tsp. red pepper flakes
2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
1½ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1½ cups basmati rice, rinsed and drained
1 pint cherry OR grape tomatoes, quartered

Directions

In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or a small bowl, whisk together 2 cups water, the tomato paste and ¾ teaspoon salt. In a large saucepan over medium, combine the oil, cumin seeds, chilies, garlic and ginger. Cook, stirring, until the seeds begin to pop and the mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute.
Stir in the rice, coating the grains with oil. Stir in the tomato water and bring to a boil over medium-high. Cover, reduce to low and cook until the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat. Quickly scatter the tomatoes over the rice and re-cover. Let stand for 10 minutes. Using a fork, fluff the rice, incorporating the tomatoes into it. Remove and discard the chilies, if used. Taste and season with salt.
Optional garnish: Chopped fresh cilantro

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Recipe by Elizabeth Germain & Elizabeth Mindreau for Milk Street