Normally, “burnt rice” is a kitchen crime you cover up and never speak of again. Here, it’s the whole point. If your arroz con gandules comes out with pegao—that toasty, golden, slightly crackly crust stuck to the bottom of the pan—congratulations, you nailed it. Scorched rice has never been such an achievement.
This one-pot classic shows up at every Puerto Rican celebration worth attending, and no Christmas table is complete without it. Quick disclaimer on the name: pigeon peas aren’t peas, aren’t pigeons, and honestly seem to be hiding their true identity as shelling beans. We’re using the canned kind here because life is short and dried beans are a commitment.
Grab green pigeon peas if you can; brown works in a pinch, and black-eyed peas will cover for them in an emergency. The one rule you can’t bend: medium-grain rice only. Long-grain will give up and turn to mush before it ever earns its crust, and a mushy pot of rice with no pegao is just… sad rice. Serve it straight from the skillet, scraped-up crust and all—no fancy plating required.
TIP: Don’t forget to rinse and drain the rice. Removing excess starch prevents the rice from cooking up heavy and gloppy. Also, don’t hand-chop the aromatics. The point of using a food processor is to really break them down so they integrate like a sauce into the rice and peas.
We increased a few of the ingredients starting with the ham steak, which typically comes in 8 ounce packages, so we decided to use the entire steak instead of just 4 ounces. Next, who uses just half of a bell pepper? Not us, so we included the entire thing; same with the onion. Finally, we may have snuck in more pimento stuffed olives than called for… just sayin’…
Puerto Rican-Style Rice with Pigeon Peas and Ham
Ingredients
- 1/2 small yellow onion, very roughly chopped
- 1/2 medium green or red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and very roughly chopped
- 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
- 1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, plus roughly chopped cilantro to serve
- 2 Tbsp. tomato paste
- 2 tsp. sweet paprika
- 1 tsp. ground cumin
- 1 tsp. dried oregano
- Kosher salt and ground black pepper
- 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 oz. boneless ham steak, cut into ½-inch cubes
- 15½ oz. can green or brown pigeon peas (see headnote), rinsed and drained
- 1½ cups medium-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
- 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
- 1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, chopped
Directions
- In a food processor, combine the onion, bell pepper, garlic, cilantro, tomato paste, paprika, cumin, oregano and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Process to a pulpy, slushy puree, about 1 minute, scraping the bowl as needed.
- In a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the ham and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the puree and cook, stirring often, until fragrant and most of the moisture has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes.
- Add the pigeon peas and rice; cook, stirring often, until the mixture begins to stick to the pan bottom, about 2 minutes. Stir in the broth and 1¼ cups water, then bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cover, reduce to low and cook, undisturbed, until the liquid is absorbed, 23 to 25 minutes.
- Remove the skillet from the heat. Scatter on the olives, then re-cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Using a fork, fluff the rice, stirring in the olives without disturbing the bottom crust. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and serve from the skillet, using a spatula to scrape up the crust.
Adapted from a recipe by Hisham Ali Hassan for Milk Street
