In writing this blog it made me think of the late-60’s, early-70’s band Hot Tuna (remember them?) an American blues rock band formed as a spin-off of Jefferson Airplane. They began during a hiatus in Airplane’s touring schedule in early 1969 while good ol’ Gracie Slick was undergoing recovery from throat node surgery that had left her unable to perform. July 1974 marked a departure from their primarily bluesy, acoustic style when Hot Tuna dropped their acoustic sets completely and morphed into a heavy rock band. They performed their final concert at the Palladium in New York City in November 1977… OK, I digress…

Good-quality tuna is a fabulous secret weapon for easy but satisfying meals. Its silky texture and slightly briny flavor makes this salad feel substantial. And by all means, don’t buy the cheaper canned stuff. You’ll be amazed at the difference in quality.

Fine Cooking blind-tested both canned and jarred samples and overwhelmingly preferred the jarred tuna (yes, it does cost more) which contained bigger pieces, was richer tasting, and had better texture. And we have to concur! They rated these two brands as the best: Tonnino (pictured below) and Sclafani.

Recipe from Emeril Lagasse of Food Network~

Flounder fillets chock-full of lump crabmeat—delicioso! Luckily we had some leftovers which made for a nice lunch the next day.

OUR NOTES: We used Panko bread crumbs instead of Ritz crackers. Our cooking time was almost double, perhaps in part to the fact that the roulades were packed tightly together in the casserole dish, so try to leave a bit of air space between them.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 pound fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Essence, recipe follows
• 1/4 cup minced yellow onion
• 2 tablespoons minced celery
• 2 tablespoons minced green bell pepper
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 teaspoon Emeril’s Hot Sauce or other red hot sauce
• 3/4 cup crushed butter crackers (recommended: Ritz)
• 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 (6 to 8-ounce) flounder fillets, skinless, pin bones removed
• 2 lemons, 1 cut into thin slices and 1 cut into wedges for serving
• 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, for drizzling over the fish

Directions

1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Using 1/2 tablespoon of the butter, grease a shallow baking dish and set aside.
2. Place the crabmeat in a large bowl and season with 1 teaspoon of the Essence. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
3. In a medium skillet, melt the remaining 2 1/2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the parsley and the garlic, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let cool.
4. Add the cooled vegetables to the crabmeat and toss gently to combine. Add the mayonnaise, beaten egg, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce and stir gently with a large wooden spoon. Add 1/2 cup of the cracker crumbs, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and pepper, and stir gently, being careful not to break up the crabmeat.
5. Season each fish fillet with 1/2 teaspoon of Essence and 1/4 teaspoon of salt and place the fillets skin side up on a work surface. Divide the crabmeat filling evenly among the centers of the fish fillets and, using your hands, roll the fillets up to encase the filling. Secure with a toothpick, if necessary.
6. Place the fillets, seam side down, in the prepared baking dish and top with slices of lemon. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup of the cracker crumbs evenly over the tops of the fillets. Drizzle with the melted butter. Using oven mitts or pot holders, place the baking dish in the oven and bake until lightly golden and cooked through, about 20 minutes.
7. Using oven mitts or pot holders, remove the baking dish from the oven and serve the fish using a metal spatula. Garnish with the remaining tablespoon of parsley and serve with additional lemon wedges, if desired.

Emeril’s ESSENCE Creole Seasoning (also referred to as Bayou Blast):

• 2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 2 tablespoons garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon black pepper
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly.

Yield: 2/3 cup

When you’re craving a little barbecue flavor in Winter (OK, so it’s technically Spring already, but it doesn’t feel like it yet), this recipe does the trick. And that’s what we were hankering for, so this recipe by Juli Roberts from Fine Cooking fit the bill with a nice flavor punch — Delicioso!

Ingredients

• 2 tsp. olive oil
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced canned chipotle in adobo sauce
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest
• 1 lb. flank steak

Directions

1. Position an oven rack 6 inches below the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil.
2. Combine 1 tsp. of the oil, the garlic, cumin, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a 1-quart saucepan over medium-low heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Add the chipotle and honey and stir until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice and zest.
3. Rub the flank steak with the remaining 1 tsp. oil and season generously with salt. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and broil, turning once, until slightly browned and cooked to your liking, about 3 minutes per side for medium rare.
4. Spread the glaze over the top of the steak and broil until it begins to bubble and darken in places, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain and serve.

While Fine Cooking suggests you pair it with mashed sweet potatoes, we made a side of roasted brussels sprouts with garlic and pancetta, and baked onion rings.

Every couple of years about a half dozen (give or take) long-time friends/cousins have a brief out-of-town get away for a night or two. This year six of us ushered in the first day of Spring in New York City. One often thinks of balmy days when talking Spring, however Mother Nature threw one last curve ball to those in the Northeast this year. While driving in with Carolyn Evans and Maureen Evans Kelly, sleet and snow were coming at us from every which way.

Maureen Evans Kelly and Eileen Sullivan yakking it up sitting on the window ledge of our 17th floor apartment at the Manhattan Club.

And despite the fact that I was also trying to overcome a cold, nothing was going to dampen our enthusiasm. We scored two, side-by-side “mini-apartments” (compliments of Carolyn) on the 17th floor of the Manhattan Club situated very conveniently on 56th St. between 7th and 8th Avenues. Earlier in the day, Margaret Manero and Marie Collinson trekked into the city via the train from Maplewood; and after working her job in Bayonne, Eileen Sullivan drove in to round off the posse.

We had some time to kill before our dinner reservations at TAO, a short taxi ride away, so out came bottles of wine, Blue Moon beer and cheese, crackers and meats to munch on. Eileen even presented a magnum bottle of Dom Pérignon (although for the life of me, I’m not sure why it never got opened that evening!) What a blast we had catching up with one another and taking selfies.

But since this is a food blog, I guess I should get down to the business of writing about our dinner.

Originally a 19th century stable for the Vanderbilt family and then a balconied movie theater, TAO New York was transformed into a majestic Asian “temple.”

The Tao focal point is a towering 16-foot tall Buddha that floats above a virtual reflecting pool complete with Japanese carp. In addition to the Buddha, there’s plenty of bamboo, silk upholstery and backlit screens. Chinese, Japanese, and Thai artifacts are skillfully placed throughout the 300-seat space with dining on three levels; including the prized Skybox which offers views of the entire restaurant from its two-story, 35-foot high perch. We were seated on the second level and had an uninterrupted view of pretty much the entire venue, which is a social swirl that spreads out over two large floors; however the noise is deafening, and we found it a bit hard to converse.

Once seated, and at the waitress’ suggestion, we anointed her to select a variety of appetizers and small plates for starters. First up was a large basket of edamame with sea salt, one of my faves (although a few in the group were not too impressed—YET.) Then in efficient fashion we received Lobster Wontons with Shiitake Ginger Broth; Satay of Chilean Sea Bass with Wok Roasted Asparagus; Pan Fried Chicken Gyoza with Napa Cabbage and Soy Dipping Sauce; Avocado and Sweet Potato Tempura; and a superb platter of sliced Short Ribs that melted in the mouth!

Starter Plates:

Truth be told I could have stopped there and been totally satisfied. Two confessed non-fish eaters in the group were stunned over how they loved the satays of Chilean sea bass. In between all of the food we also enjoyed some signature cocktails, so much so that Maureen ended up with a “smiley face” in her specialty drink.

Among the entrees ordered were Crispy Orange Chicken; Roasted Thai Buddha Chicken; Wok Seared New York Sirloin with Shiitake Mushrooms and Szechwan Potatoes; Omakase Chef’s Choice Sashimi; Trio of Salmon, Tuna, and Yellowtail Sashimi with Wasabi Salsa (and another dish which I have forgotten.) Everything arrived so artfully plated on an array of interesting asian-inspired vessels. Finally, a couple of desserts were ordered for those who wanted to share. I’m guessing here, but I think they were Crispy Fuji Apple Blossoms (Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream) and an additional scoop of some sort of ice cream.

Entrees:

Most of the gang hoofed it back to the rooms, but both Carolyn and I were nursing colds and didn’t want to compromise our “delicate” health in the bad weather, so we hailed a cab. With dinner reservations at 6:30, we were back in the rooms early which gave us plenty of time to continue our gab-fest and talk about our possible adventures in the City for the following morning…

After breakfast at a nearby diner, we walked in Central Park past Trump Tower and stopped in West Elm where many in the group purchased some homemade brownies and breads. The stroll continued past Carnegie Hall, Radio City Music Hall, Rockefeller Center, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. And for the fashion-focused we window shopped along 5th Ave. at Cartiers, Harry Winston’s, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianni Versace, Gucci, Fendi…. you get the idea.

While all good things must come to an end, we parted ways mid-afternoon but not before promising to get together again before too long. Thanks ladies for a fun-filled weekend, one I’m sure to never forget!

PS—At one stop in IT’SUGAR Candy Store, home of the world’s largest supersized candy, fun gifts and novelty items, I was attracted to a key lime assortment of gifts. And knowing my hubby’s affection for anything key lime, I bought him a couple of souvenirs which he plans to bust open soon…

Our first night in Washington DC, the concierge at the Mandarin Oriental tried to get us reservations at the Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington’s oldest saloon founded in 1856. Even with all his connections, they were booked that Sunday night until at least midnight! So we asked Clyde to do his magic and see if he could get us in the next night—on Monday, which he did—and even then, we had a bit of a wait for our 8:00 reservation.

The Victorian interior evokes Washington saloons at the turn of the century so while waiting for our table, we enjoyed a drink at the bar and studied the amassed priceless collection of antiques and memorabilia, acquired beer steins, and animal heads (reputedly bagged by Teddy Roosevelt). Carved glass panels separate the Old Bar from the Main Dining Room which depict the Treasury, the Capitol, and the White House. The antique clock over the revolving door at the entrance is an heirloom from the previous location, and the marble staircase with an iron-spindled rail was salvaged from the old National Metropolitan Bank next door.

Now about their menu. They buy their produce from local farms, and spring through fall use only fresh, high-quality fruits and vegetables, sourcing much of their meat, poultry and seafood direct from its native region. And of course being in Maryland, we just had to have seafood, specifically crab. But for starters, Russ chose the Oyster Stew with fried Blue Point oysters, light cream broth, Old Bay, celery and parsley, which he savored down to the last drop! In the mood for a good salad, I had the Local Apple Salad comprised of shaved kale, radicchio, frisée, Gorgonzola, cranberries, candied walnuts dressed in an apple cider vinaigrette—absolutely delicious.

It’s unusual for us to both order the  same entree, but the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with Old Bay Yukon gold potatoes, tart apple-beet-celeriac slaw, and remoulade sauce were calling both of our names that night. You can order one or two cakes, but noticing the size on other patron’s plates, and the fact that we couldn’t take a doggie bag to-go, we each ordered one a piece—which was plenty after our starters and the really good bread brought to the table as soon as we sat down.

We highly recommend this historical landmark if you’re ever in the DC area for a visit. And if crab cakes aren’t your thing, the menu boasts numerous other choices including pastas, meatloaf, chops, steaks, duck breast, salmon, trout and fish and chips to name a few. Hope you get a chance to experience it!

Kalettes are the product of 15 years of hard work and dedication (using traditional breeding techniques) from the British vegetable seed house Tozer Seeds. They are a non-GMO vegetable developed through traditional hybridization and not genetic modification. It’s been since 1995 that the last successful hybrid, Broccolini, was introduced. Find out more under the Bits N Pieces tab…

If you’re looking for a different soup that incorporates greens such as turnip, mustard, collard, or kale, check out the Galician White Bean Soup under the “Soups” tab…

Good friends Paula and Mike Graham made reservations for the four of us at El Poquito, a Mexican cantina, located in the Chestnut Hill section of Philadelphia. Recently opened by George Atterbury (protégé of famed Iron Chef José Garces (JG), it is named after iconic café racer motorcycles that raced up the coast of Mexico and into Baja California in the 1970’s. Atterbury hired former JG Domestic chef de cuisine, Andrew Sabin as his executive chef.

As José Garces is one of our favorite chefs, we were excited about the possibilities this new restaurant had to offer with their delectably unique varieties of Mexican cuisine which boasts a full bar with solid beer selections, plus a varied list of tequilas, mezcals, margaritas and creative cocktails; and an easy-priced menu of tacos, enchiladas and ceviches.

Less than 15 minutes from Mike and Paula’s house, we made it in perfect time to be seated for our 7:00 reservations. Walking back to our booth, I noticed the namesake racer motorcycles hanging on the walls (unfortunately my photo is blurry) and the awesome, wood-paneled soaring ceilings impressively lit with numerous twinkling glass pendants.

Paula and Mike Graham

Russ and yours truly

Camarones Ceviche appetizer

As for those aforementioned libations, Russ and Mike both slowly enjoyed a “hip” Mezcal Negroni: mezcal, campari, sweet vermouth (barrel-aged when available, and it was that night) with a twist of lemon; while Paula relished a Margarita, and I sipped a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. As an appetizer Russ and I shared a Camarones Ceviche: shrimp, spicy tomato, orange, avocado, and corn nuts.

Vintage cocktail negroni is emerging as the drink of the moment—now a super-modish choice in hipster pubs and enthusiastic cocktail bars, where whole negroni menus are emerging, with some people prefering less Campari and a touch more of mellowing vermouth.

Not an extensive dinner menu, it’s easy to zero in on a selection—and everything is a la carte, even the sides. The following pictures pretty much tell the story:

Mike—TACOS DE CARNITAS: crispy pork, spicy black beans, onion, lime and cilantro

Paula–TACOS DE BAJA: crispy cod, cabbage, green apple, avocado, spicy lime aioli

Russ—ENCHILADAS DE COSTILLAS: short rib, queso oaxaca, roasted onion, mole poblano

Lynn—ENCHILADAS DE POLLO: chicken, guajillo chile sauce, queso fresco, pickled onion

Russ exclaimed “These were quite possibly the best enchiladas I’ve ever eaten!” After our fabulous meal, walking to the parking lot, we encountered a vibrant little park area (which seems to be part of the Chestnut Hill Hotel compound) with colorful fountains, interesting statues and quirky seating, so of course I had to photograph us playing around.

In season, a landscaped patio with outdoor fire pits will add a new dimension to this Germantown Avenue landmark. The accommodating and knowledgeable servers, the hip venue, and the distinctive menu make this thriving new restaurant well worth another visit— hopefully in warmer weather.

BTW, the literal translation for El Poquito is “The Little One” or “The Underdog.”

• 1/2 cup (1 1/2 ounces) Gruyère cheese, shredded
• 1 tablespoon light mayonnaise
• 1 clove (small) garlic, crushed with press
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 8 (about 3 ounces each) thin-sliced chicken cutlets
• 1 box (9- to 10-ounce) frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3/4 cup lower-sodium chicken broth
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel

Directions

1. In small bowl, combine Gruyère, mayonnaise, garlic, 1 teaspoon mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
2. On each piece chicken, spread 1 heaping tablespoon spinach up to 3/4 inch from edges. Place 2 teaspoons cheese mixture on spinach at one short end, in a strip, 1 inch from edges. Roll up, starting at end with cheese. Secure with toothpicks to enclose filling.
3. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet on medium-high; add chicken. Cook 5 to 8 minutes or until browned, turning occasionally. Reduce heat to medium; add 1 tablespoon water. Cover; cook 5 minutes or until chicken is cooked through (165 degrees F), turning over once. Transfer to plate and cover with foil.
4. Into same skillet on medium-high, stir chicken broth, lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook 4 minutes or until sauce thickens slightly. Stir in lemon peel.
5. Remove toothpicks from chicken and slice. Serve with sauce and roasted potatoes.

Now for our side dish recipe:

BRAISED WINTER GREENS

…Or more precisely, the land of the other white meat: PORK. For many years I didn’t eat any pork products. No particular reason that I can remember, just didn’t do it for over a decade or so. Then one fine pig roast up in the Poconos at the White Water Rafting company annual picnic, my ex-husband (who was the official “Pig Master”) persuaded me to try the cheek meat, and after one tender, juicy, perfectly-seasoned mouthful, I was hooked!

A picture of a 300 lb. pig being prepared for the annual pig roast back in the mid-80’s.

While not planning to do a pig roast anytime in the near future, this Sautéed Pork Chops Normandy Style recipe comes from The Complete Meat Cookbook by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly. It describes a master recipe where the secret to successfully cooking center-cut pork chops is not to overcook them. For best results and flavor, the internal temperature of these chops should reach 150° F but go no higher than 155°, retaining a faint pink tinge. (Ignore all cookbooks that tell you to cook pork to 18o° F.)

The seared chops without the sauce.

Reducing the pan sauce with apple, onion and cider.

The chops smothered in pan sauce.

Plated meal with pork chop and sautéed cabbage.

The meat is aromatically enhanced with a pan sauce made up of onions, apples, apple cider, brandy and dijon mustard… tasty indeed. Now what to have with those pork chops??

Poor cabbage. Alternately viewed as a pauper’s vegetable or a dieter’s frenemy, cabbage is still considered boring and bland at best and mushy and smelly at worst. Here, it’s reputation is restored by highlighting its mild sweetness and maintaining a crisp-tender texture.

To turn the cabbage into a bona fide side dish, onions are added for depth, while parsley and lemon add vibrancy. A precooking step of soaking the cabbage reduces bitterness while providing extra moisture to help the cabbage steam. As simple as it is to make, we were pleasantly surprised how very good it was!

Sautéed Cabbage with Lemon and Parsley
By Sandra Wu from Cooks Illustrated

~by Ivy Manning from Fine Cooking~

The side carrot slaw was surprisingly tasty with only three ingredients and paired well with the salmon. To round off the meal, we combined two kinds of leftover risotto. Perfect meal when you don’t have a lot of time to cook.

Dark caramel is so commonly used in Vietnamese kitchens that it’s often made in batches and kept by the stove. While it adds a hint of sweetness, it’s prized more for its savory, toasty notes. On salmon, it’s incredible, especially when paired with a tangy carrot slaw to balance the flavors.

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 2 medium carrots, coarsely grated or julienned (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. canola oil
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced (about 3/4 cup)
• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1-1/2 lb. skinless salmon fillet, preferably wild, pin bones removed, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces

Swirling the sugar to create the “caramel.”

Simmering the cubed salmon with the caramel sauce.

Directions

1. Heat the sugar in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook, tilting the pan occasionally to help the sugar melt evenly, until dark amber (like maple syrup), about 3 minutes. (If your pan is dark, test the color by dribbling some on a white plate.) Remove from the heat and carefully add 1/4 cup water; it will steam and bubble.
2. Put the skillet over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add 1 Tbs. of the lime juice and the fish sauce and bring to a simmer. Cook until thick enough for a spoon to leave a trail in the skillet, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, combine the carrots, cilantro, and the remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste with more lime juice and salt.
4. Heat the oil in a wok or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the scallions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the caramel sauce and 3/4 tsp. pepper and bring to a simmer.
5. Add the fish and toss gently to coat. Distribute the fish in a single layer and simmer vigorously, stirring once, until cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve with the carrots.

Packing a powerful flavor-punch that included sweet, savory, and spicy notes, this Orange-Glazed Chicken recipe seemed right up our alley. It caught my eye as I was flipping through Redbook Magazine, with the promise of a rather easy weeknight meal. Thinking eight chicken breasts were way too many for two people, we halved the number of pieces, but made the entire portion of sauce because it just sounded way too good—and boy was it! (If you happen to have a more delicate palette, you may want to consider limiting the amount of cayenne.)

Four delicious glazed chicken breasts garnished with chopped scallions and orange zest.

The instructions indicate simmering the sauce until it reduces by about a third. In our case, it was too thin for our taste, so we continued reducing for a total of about 45 minutes until it was near the consistency of a light syrup. Granted we did have leftover glaze mixture, which we welcomed because Russ was already imaging an exotic stir-fry that would compliment the sauce for another night.

With not much time to prep on a weeknight, we paired the chicken with a healthy Urbane quinoa blend with miso, edamame and scallions. Mmmmm, mmm good…

Ingredients

• 2 cups chicken broth
• 1 cup orange juice
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/2 cup hoisin sauce
• 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp cayenne
• 3 Tbsp orange zest, divided
• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• 8 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
• Kosher salt and pepper
• 1/4 cup scallions, finely sliced

Directions

1. Heat oven to 350. In a bowl, whisk the broth, orange juice, honey, hoisin sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, cayenne, and two tablespoons of the orange zest, set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over med-high heat. Season the chicken breasts on both sides with salt and pepper. Place four breasts in the heated pan, searing until lightly browned on both sides, flipping once. Place the chicken on a plate; repeat with the remaining breasts, tent with foil.
3. Place the skillet back on the stove over medium heat; pour in the glaze mixture, Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring until the mixture is reduced by a third (or as in our case, by at least half.) Return the chicken to the skillet, arranging in a snug, even layer.
4. Place the skillet in the oven and roast the chicken for about 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 165 degreeF. Remove the chicken from the skillet and place on a large platter, pour the glaze over the chicken and garnish with scallions and remaining orange zest.
5. If, when the skillet comes out of the oven and you still want to thicken the glaze, arrange the breasts on a platter, tent with foil, and bring the sauce to a simmer for another 5 minutes or so until thickened, pour over plated chicken, then garnish.

You have heard the old adage “Time Flies,” well it becomes increasingly prevalent as we get older. Which couldn’t have been more true in getting together with my cousin Tom and his wife Jacqui. Last we met was about 1 1/2 years ago, and the Saturday we had invited them over for dinner almost didn’t happen. Find out why under the Reconnecting with Friends tab…

~Pollo de Corral de Cándida Acebo~
From La Cocina de Mamá by Penelope Casas.

Candidá, good friend of chef/author Penelope Casas, lived in the remote village of Compludo in the province of Léon Spain, a fertile region of El Bierzo, famed for its fruits and vegetables. Here the chickens wander the streets at will—free range in the truest sense—and villagers naturally cook with ingredients readily at hand. Thus, Penelope received this chicken recipe from Candidá which makes use of the village chickens and locally grown onions.

By now we’ve made numerous dishes from La Cocina de Mamá and everyone has been a winner, so we looked forward to trying this one out too. Not overly complex or time-consuming, this recipe soothes the soul on a cold winter’s eve. And don’t worry about leftovers, because if you do happen to end up with some, they’re just as good reheated.

Ingredients

• One 3- to 3 1/2 lb. chicken
• Kosher or sea salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 Tbsp minced, fresh parsley
• 1/2 tsp sweet paprika, preferably Spanish smoked
• 1 1/4 cups dry red wine
• 1 med. onion, preferably Vidalia or other sweet onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup finely chopped carrots
• 1 med. red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Directions

1. Cut the chicken into small serving pieces, first detaching the wings and legs, then, with kitchen shears, cutting the breast into four pieces and each thigh in half crosswise. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2. In a mortar, mash to a paste the garlic, parsley, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Mash in the paprika, then stir in the wine and reserve.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a shallow casserole or skillet and sauté the chicken until browned on both sides. Add the onions, carrots, and bell pepper and sauté until the vegetables are softened. Stir in the mortar mixture and cook slowly, covered for 30 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a large skillet heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add the potatoes in a single layer, sprinkle with salt, and sauté for 2 minutes, turning with a metal spatula to prevent sticking. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until tender, about 10 minutes, turning occasionally with the spatula.
5. Drain the oil, add the potatoes to the chicken, and continue cooking for 5 more minutes. Serve.

We found it best served in shallow bowls because of all the wonderful juices.

Selected from one of our most beloved recipe books “All About Braising,” we felt Osso Buco alla Milanese made for the start of a great Italian-themed meal on Valentine’s Day along with Risotto Milanese, a classic accompaniment, and with good reason. It’s creamy texture and saffron-laced flavor go perfectly with the tender shanks.

This recipe is surprisingly straightforward considering the complexity of flavor it delivers. Like the author Molly Stevens, we added a bit of chopped fresh fennel to the traditional aromatic mix of onions, celery, and carrots along with orange zest to enliven the braising liquid.

Our fine friends Rosanne and Gary Zarrilli had also celebrated as a couple at a restaurant on Valentine’s Eve the night before, so getting together on the actual holiday seemed like a no-brainer. Inspired by the celebratory day, I concocted “Pamatini” house cocktails to get the party started—but renamed them Valentinis for obvious reasons. Tasty little devils, they were quite a hit as we dove into the wonderful appetizer that Rosanne whipped together, Bacon-wrapped Sea Scallops with a Sriracha dipping sauce and red pepper and celery sticks so artfully plated on a seashell dish. Those scallops were so big, she admitted to cutting them in half for ease of eating.

Bacon-wrapped sea scallop appetizer.

The house drink Valentini.

With corks popped from some “Chairman’s Choice” bottles of Italian reds, we gathered at the dining table to continue the feast. Mrs. Z brought fixin’s for a side salad—and not just any old side salad, but one befitting the special day. She arranged the precut ingredients of bibb lettuce, hard-boiled egg slices, olives, baby cucumber slices, large shrimp and heart-shaped red beets, topped off with a fabulous homemade Green Goddess dressing—in a word, divine!

Rosanne’s special Valentine side salad.

Veal shanks browning in Big Red.

Braise veal shanks with the finishing touch of gremolata.

The entire meal also included Risotto Milanese and steamed broccolini.

Oooh that Osso Buco… yes, somewhat labor-intensive, but when browned on both sides and braised for a few hours in the aromatics and white wine, the results are incredibly tender shanks that are perfectly flavored with the finishing gremolata. This is one meal we’ll replicate for years to come. And lucky for me, I had enough leftover for a meal the next day.

While Russ was the main chef for the entree and sides, earlier in the morning I created a Chocolate Espresso Tart for dessert. Wanting to give it a finishing touch that spoke of the holiday, I added heart-shaped, candy-covered raspberry chocolate truffles, which also provided a nice pop of color. To up the sweetness quotient (because there was very little sugar) I whipped the mascarpone cheese with a 1/2 cup of confectioner’s sugar and some vanilla. In the end, I think it probably could have benefitted from more sweetness all around. (Will blog this recipe at another time.)

The entire Chocolate Espresso Tart.

A slice of the dessert tart.

Alas, it was time to draw the festivities to a close. When Gary went out to start the car, he found a few inches of snow had fallen since their arrival, and the winds were starting to kick up as the Polar Vortex was announcing it’s unwelcome arrival. But I got a text from Rosanne that they had made it home safely…
all’s well that ends well…

Some recipes follow…

Continue reading Osso Buco alla Milanese →