A vegetarian meal with a meaty undertone and a soulful depth of flavor. Here, nutty mushrooms and quick-cooking lentils play nicely together for a flavor-packed, meatless take on classic ragù. Traditionally, ragù gets its signature savory flavor from slow-cooked meat like ground beef or pork.

In this vegetarian version, a mix of sautéed mushrooms, such as oyster and cremini, lends earthy flavor and texture, while black lentils — a quicker-cooking legume than green or red lentils — gives the sauce body.

Lentils are prized in the Mediterranean, and most Italians would agree that the best lentils come from Southern Italy. Although they cook in under half an hour, black (Beluga) lentils remain a bit more sturdy throughout the cooking process than most other lentils. Instead (because we had them on hand), we used Puglia lentils which are celebrated for their earthy taste and numerous health benefits.

Like any ragù, this dish relies entirely on building layers of flavor. Sautéing the mushrooms, onions, and carrots until browned and toasting the tomato paste creates a deep foundation of umami. Deglazing the brown bits at the bottom of the Dutch oven with wine and stock infuses the lentils and sauce with rich, savory notes.

Simmered in a red wine sauce fortified with vegetable broth, the lentils become tender and creamy, resulting in a hearty sauce that comes together in less than an hour and proves to be more than the sum of its parts. Serve over creamy cooked polenta or fresh pappardelle for a filling meal. 

Make Ahead: You can make this ragù up to three days in advance and store it covered in the refrigerator. When reheating, you may find that the lentils have absorbed some of the liquid. Simply thin it back out to your desired consistency with vegetable stock or water. This recipe is also freezer-friendly. Let it cool completely, then ladle it into freezer-safe containers or large resealable plastic bags, and store it in the freezer for up to two months.

Recipe by Anna Theoktisto for Food & Wine