Accounting for Taste

No strangers to grilling or roasting succulent chickens, this Grilled Oregano Chicken resting on a bed of Tomatoes in Chile-Fennel Oil was arguably our most visually stunning attempt yet. On top of pleasing the eye, these two fabulous recipes we adapted from Bon Appetit were also hands-down delicious!

Because the chicken needs to marinate for 4-12 hours before grilling, there is definitely some prep work necessary earlier in the day. Knowing this, we made the anchovy mixture on a weekend morning, went about our business, and eight hours later when we were ready to start dinner, a lot of the work was already done.

Red pepper flakes and fennel seed simmer in olive oil.

In that vein, you could also make the chile-fennel oil ahead of time. It seemed odd to us that the recipe didn’t call for straining the oil from the fennel seed and pepper flakes after simmering. Not wanting that “seedy” consistency in our mouths, we did strain ours. And because it is intense in flavor, most of you will be adding it sparingly. With the leftover, Russ suggested using it to dress a pasta dish in the near future. Great idea!

The onion slices as they look after marinating with the chicken.

After about 40 minutes over low heat, the onions take on a gorgeous caramelization.

Oh, and for heaven’s sake, DO NOT toss the marinade away once you remove the chicken until you have rescued the onion slices from the bag. They contain so much flavor! But obviously you can’t eat them as they are because they’ve been in bed with a raw chicken. Simply put them in a large skillet (no more oil necessary) over low heat for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, to let them caramelize. Then when assembling your plates, toss them over the meal for an additional layer of tastiness—trust me, you’ll thank us for this tip.

The chicken gets browned over direct flames on all sides.

After 25 minutes roasting breast up over indirect heat, the chicken is turned for another 20 or so minutes.

We were a little skeptical with the grilling time, 30-40 minutes did not seem long enough. But then again, we didn’t halve our bird lengthwise as per instructions, instead we kept the chicken whole. Totally up to you. And instead of cooking the chicken directly on the grates the entire time, Russ went with a tried-and-true method of browning the whole bird on all sides over direct flames, then placing in a roasting basket over indirect heat, 25 minutes on one side, 20 on the other. Perfection!

Plans for next time? And there will definitely be a next time, real soon. Spatchcocking—a quick method to cook a fowl by splitting it open and grilling it flat. The chicken cooks more quickly and evenly, and all the skin—not just the skin over the breast—gets golden and crisp. Plus it’s much easier to serve; where to cut to separate the legs from the breast is completely obvious.

We can’t wait to make this again!

The golden star of the show sits for a few minutes to let the juices redistribute before carving.

Rounding out the dinner was roasted colorful baby smashed potatoes with dash of minced fresh rosemary and a sprinkle of sea salt. Very patriotic in red, white and blue.

Grilled Oregano Chicken

The key to grilling a whole chicken, or large pieces, is patience (not my best virtue.) Starting with the skin side up reduces flare-ups, and medium heat gives you browned, not blackened, skin and juicy flesh.

Ingredients are assembled for the meat marinade.

The chicken starts getting happy in the anchovy garlic mixture.

The final step to the marinade is adding the chopped oregano and sliced onion.

Ingredients (serves 6-8)

10 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
1½ cups green olives (such as Castelvetrano), plus ½ cup brine reserved
½ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, thinly sliced
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh oregano, plus leaves for serving
1 3½–4-pound chicken, halved lengthwise
Vegetable oil (for grilling)

Directions

Toss anchovies, garlic, olive brine, olive oil, and lemon juice in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Place half of anchovy mixture in a large resealable plastic bag; add onion and chopped oregano. Cover and chill remaining anchovy mixture.
Season chicken halves with salt and pepper and add to bag, seal bag, and toss to coat. Let marinate 4–12 hours.
Prepare grill for medium heat; generously oil grate with vegetable oil. Remove chicken from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag (a few pieces of onion and oregano still clinging are okay); discard marinade. Starting skin side up, grill chicken, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and cooked through, 30–40 minutes.
Meanwhile, set out reserved anchovy mixture and let come to room temperature. Use the side of a chef’s knife to smash olives, crushing and pitting them at the same time (smash again if very large). Add olives and lemon zest to anchovy mixture.
Place chicken on top of Tomatoes in Chile-Fennel Oil (recipe follows) and spoon anchovy-olive mixture around. Top with oregano leaves.

Do Ahead: Chicken can be grilled 4 hours ahead. Store at room temperature and assemble dish just before serving. (Although I am a bit distrustful of leaving meat out on the counter that long.)

Assemble some of the dressed heirlooms on your plate, place the chicken on the tomatoes, spoon over the olive mixture, and top with some of those caramelized onions. Almost too pretty to eat!

Tomatoes In Chile-Fennel Oil

Because it is so good and versatile, you may want to double the chile oil, keep it chilled, and drizzle over flatbreads, pastas, and all of your grilled meats and vegetables all season long.

The heirloom tomatoes are dressed with the flavored oil and a sprinkle of sea salt before being arranged on individual plates.

Ingredients (serves 8)

½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
3 pounds large tomatoes, preferably heirloom, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds
1 tablespoon (or more) red wine vinegar
Flaky sea salt

Directions

Cook oil, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until oil around spices is sizzling, about 5 minutes.
Reduce heat to low and continue to cook until oil is infused with flavor and rusty-orange in color, 20–30 minutes. Let cool.
Arrange tomatoes on a large platter and drizzle with vinegar, then chile-fennel oil. Season with more vinegar if desired and sprinkle with salt.