Normandy Chicken with Apples

Poulet Vallée d’Auge, a rustic braise that marries chicken with apples, Calvados, hard cider and cream. As it is classically known in English, Normandy Chicken with Apples smells like an autumn orchard, although it is a meal that is welcomed anytime of year.

The sequencing of the apples is the real ingenuity of this recipe. By pulling them out after a brief sauté and not returning them until the sauce is nearly finished, you preserve that sweet-tart brightness — they taste of apple rather than dissolving anonymously into the braise. It’s a small act of restraint that makes a big difference in the bowl. Keeping them unpeeled helps the wedges hold their shape through the brief sauté. Their early removal and late return is the key to bright, distinct fruit flavor in the finished dish. (If you prefer softer apples, cook them a few minutes longer in Step 2.)

The uncovered Dutch pot in the oven is also worth trusting. It’s counterintuitive — braising usually means lid on, low and slow — but the oven’s dry, ambient heat does something a stovetop lid cannot: it keeps the skin taut and golden while the liquid below gently simmers and reduces. You get crispness and succulence in the same bite.

One practical note: when you nestle the chicken back in for the oven braise, make sure those skin surfaces are genuinely sitting above the braising liquid, not totally submerged in it. You can use a combination of thighs and breasts (we just used thighs).

Braised recipes with apples tend to be considered a Fall/Winter dish. However, since good apples are available any time of year, there is no reason not to make the meal in the Springtime. (Hot summers, maybe not the best time.) It is lovely served over buttered egg noodles or alongside crusty bread to catch the cream sauce.

Calvados is an aged apple brandy produced in Normandy. If it is not available, domestic apple brandy is a fine substitute, as is applejack. As for the hard cider, use one that is dry, not sweet, and do not replace it with nonalcoholic cider or apple juice, both of which are too sugary.

TIP: Don’t aim for deep browning on the chicken, apples or mushrooms. Light to medium caramelization at all stages is desirable here. The gentle flavors in the braise are easily overwhelmed by aggressive searing.

Oh, and because we ADORE shallots, the amount was doubled from 2 to 4, and it was perfect!

Normandy Chicken with Apples

  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
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Ingredients

  • 2½ – 3 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and/or breasts, trimmed and patted dry, breasts halved crosswise if larger than 12 oz. each
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. neutral oil
  • 4 Tbsp. salted butter, cut into 1-Tbsp. pieces, divided
  • 2 medium crisp, sweet-tart apples, such as Honeycrisp or Gala (about 12 oz.), unpeeled, halved, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges
  • 8 oz. cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
  • 2 medium shallots, cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges (root ends intact)
  • 1/4 cup Calvados or other apple brandy (see headnote)
  • 12 oz. bottle dry hard apple cider (see headnote)
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Directions

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Season the chicken all over with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken skin side down, in batches if needed to avoid crowding; cook, reducing the heat if needed, until light golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the pieces skin side up to a large plate. Pour off and discard the fat from the pot.
  2. To the now-empty pot, add 2 tablespoons butter and heat over medium until just melted. Add the apples and cook, stirring, until lightly golden and starting to soften, about 3 minutes (or a few minutes longer if you prefer softer apples). Transfer the apples to another plate; set aside.
  3. Return the pot to medium and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the mushrooms, shallots and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and add the Calvados. Return to medium-high and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until syrupy, about 2 minutes. Add the cider, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
  4. Off heat, return the chicken skin side up to the pot and add the accumulated juices. Place uncovered in the oven and cook until the thickest part of the breasts (if using) reaches 160°F or the thickest part of the thighs (if using) reaches 175°F, 20 to 25 minutes.
  5. Transfer the chicken to a platter. Return the pot to medium-high and stir in the apples and cream. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce lightly coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce and vegetables around the chicken. Sprinkle with the parsley.

http://www.lynnandruss.com

Recipe adapted by Courtney Hill for Milk Street

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