Flatfish such as flounder and sole are quick-cooking, ultraconvenient—and finicky. Because they lie in camouflage on the seabed waiting for prey, the flesh of these fish is unbeatably tender, flaky, and delicate. But their flesh is quick to tighten up and dry out over fierce heat, yet if you go too easy on the sear, the fragile fillets can tear or break when you attempt a flip.
Once you nail the process, you are handsomely rewarded: Done right, flounder and sole are buttery, flaky, mild, and sweet, the perfect canvas for a variety of punchy sauces and toppings.
According to chef David Yu, when fish releases moisture in the skillet, that moisture impedes the fillet’s contact with the pan and oil and also lowers the temperature of everything, resulting in a longer browning time. So it’s key not only to thoroughly dry the fish with paper towels but also to dredge it in flour, which absorbs any moisture left on the fish’s surface.
Flour presents a couple of other perks as well: It helps hold the delicate flesh together by forming gluten, and its protein and sugar also help the fish to brown. Here, the fish is floured on only one side.
TIP: Using a well-oiled stainless-steel skillet rather than nonstick allows you to cook the fish at a higher temperature, quickly altering the proteins in the fish to keep them from bonding to the pan.
Our fillets were larger than noted in the original recipe, so we used a 13″ stainless steel skillet and a bit more oil in the pan. Because of their length, the fillets were a bit tricky to turn over. Pairing with steamed broccoli and a side salad, we enjoyed a fast, healthy and tasty dinner!
Pan-Seared Flounder with Lemon-Caper Sauce
Ingredients
- 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
- ¾ tsp. table salt, divided
- ¼ tsp. pepper
- 6 (4- to 6-oz.) skinless flounder fillets, ¼ to ½ inch thick
- 4 tsp. vegetable oil, divided
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- ⅓ cup dry white wine
- ⅓ cup water
- 1½ tsp. grated lemon zest, plus 1½ Tbsp. juice
- 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces and chilled
- 2 Tbsp. capers, rinsed
- 1 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley
Directions
- Whisk 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, ½ teaspoon table salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl. Reserve 1 teaspoon flour mixture, then spread remaining mixture in even layer on large plate.
- Dry 6 skinless flounder fillets thoroughly with paper towels. Place 3 fillets, skinned side down, into flour mixture on plate to coat 1 side. Shake off excess and transfer to rimmed baking sheet, floured side up.
- Heat 1½ teaspoons vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Carefully place fillets, floured side down, in pan and cook until bottom is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Using 2 thin spatulas, gently flip fillets and let stand until second side is opaque, 15 to 30 seconds. Transfer fillets, browned side up, to platter. Wipe out skillet with paper towels and repeat steps 2 and 3 with remaining fillets and 1½ teaspoons oil.
- Wipe out skillet with paper towels. Add remaining 1 teaspoon oil and 3 minced garlic cloves and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in reserved 1 teaspoon flour mixture and cook for 15 seconds.
- Whisk in ⅓ cup white wine, ⅓ cup water, 1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest and 1½ tablespoons juice, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring to simmer and cook until sauce has thickened slightly, about 2 minutes.
- Off heat, whisk in 3 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces. Stir in 2 tablespoons rinsed capers and 1 tablespoon minced parsley. Spoon sauce over fish and serve.
Recipe by David Yu for Cook’s Illustrated
Accounting for Taste 
Love both flounder and sole – in many ways one of my favourite fishes! Lovely recipe of yours . . . growing up in northern Europe I remember oft being offered this whole . . . for a child it was so easy to get the flesh off the large bone 🙂 !
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